I don’t think I’ve ever done that before. Finishing one trail and then immediately starting another. Normally I like to hang around a bit to celebrate. Maybe treat myself to some chicken nuggets or even a glass of wine. After going without for a few days it’s always nice to have some of life’s comforts.

But there was no time for that today. I had an appointment to get to. Well, not really an appointment, but I’d just booked some accommodation for the next night, and I knew that the further I could get into the West Highland Way today the easier it would be for me to get there tomorrow. The accommodation is at the Glencoe Ski resort and I’d been putting off booking it until I was fairly certain I could make it there on time, but now I was committed. In an ideal world I’d actually get there before 3:30pm as that is when the cafe is due to close.

So, with that impending deadline in mind, I made my way to the end of the Great Glen Way, quickly went to the shop for supples, found my way to the start of the West Highland Way, and then headed off. No time for any cheer or applause, I was on a mission.

It did feel slightly strange, and a little intimidating, that I was starting the Way so late in the day, but it did make sense. If I could just get a few miles under my belt, and find a decent spot to camp, I’d be set up nicely.

Dry at last

The night was quite a miracle. Even before went to sleep I looked out of the tent to witness an infinite number of stars. If it hadn’t been so cold I would have stayed outside to stare at them.

The wind was not strong but just strong enough to dry the tent and also stop any condensation from forming. Also, I slept very well. It was actually quite noisy with the sound of the wind in the trees and the waves from the loch crashing on the banks, but that didn’t seem to disturb me. Maybe it even helped me sleep.

I woke at 6:30 and forced myself to get ready. I had about 15 miles left to go on the Great Glen Way and knew I wanted to make a start on the West Highland Way so really needed to maximise the available daylight.

Everything was easy though. It was such a joy to put on dry clothes for a change, and not having to separate the tent fly from its inner really was the icing on the cake. I was on my way by 7:30 feeling very comfortable and grateful things were going my way.

Back to front

I really had the best views for my walk today. Right from leaving camp I was spoiled with views from every angle. The mountains looked imposing, the waves on the loch wild, and then the calmness of the canal.

I was being an absolute nightmare with my camera. Constantly stopping to take picture or record videos. Each time, after I’d stopped and captured a moment, I would tell myself to ‘pack it in’ as I really needed to be getting a move on. But then, moments later, I’d be stopped doing it all over again. I really was annoying myself.

Even when I realised there was no way to capture everything I was seeing, and I really should just take it in and enjoy the morning, I’d stop and think, just one more. I did manage to reduce my photography once I got off Loch Lochy and onto the Caledonian Canal, as there is a little more repetition, but even then I had the mountains to my left so I wasn’t fully cured.

The day was so good, and really the perfect end to the Great Glen Way, I did think maybe I’d found a hidden secret. I concluded that doing it backwards is better. I’d certainly enjoyed it more than I did last time when I did it the normal way. Today I’d loved walking towards the mountains and having Ben Nevis in view for so long. On previous days Loch Ness was in front of me rather than behind.

But I don’t think my conclusion is correct. There are way too many factors, like the weather, how you’re feeling on a particular day, the weather, and also the weather. And besides, there really is no right direction. The signs are there for both ways. I think I was just in a better place this time, mentally that is, and also as I was familiar with the route so it felt more comfortable.

So, I’d say do the route which ever way is more convenient. The only advice I’d really give, based on now doing it in both directions and seeing the path is a different light, is to remember to look back once in a while. Because sometimes the good view is behind you.

Onwards and upwards

It felt good to finish the Great Glen Way. The last few miles after the canal are a mixed bag. Initially there are fantastic views of Ben Nevis and its surrounding mountains as it leads you on the sea front (is it a sea or loch). They tower over the housing estate the path goes through.

I watched locals go about their daily lives, wondering how they ever get issued to these huge pieces of rock looming over their houses. It feels quite surreal. But it’s every day for them.

Then the path goes through some more housing, down a few alleys, into a small wood, and then, finally to the sign. It’s quite understated but I liked that about it.

For me it was then a quick turnaround, onto the West Highland Way, and the long long climb out of Fort William, constantly in the shadow of the snow topped Ben Nevis.

I’ve done enough, I think

I think I’m about 5 miles into the trail. So, although I’ve got a couple of climbs and descents to cover tomorrow I think I should be at my accommodation in good time. Whether I make it in time for the cafe is another matter.

On the Great Glen Way I hardly saw anyone. No hikers, and just a few people out for walks. This afternoon, now on the West Highland Way, I have already seen more people in the few hours I’ve been on it than the whole of my time on the Great Glen Way. They were mainly just out for walks (not doing the trail) although I may have spotted two people just completing it. It’ll be interesting to see how many people I encounter over the next few days. As I’m going ‘backwards’ I may see a few.

The forecast is indicating that it’ll get to -4 tonight so I think I’ll keep my coat on in bed.