I had to look up the literal translation of eau de toilette. It basically means ‘water of the toilet’, or ‘toilet water’. I wanted to check if my joke worked. And it sort of does. I don’t think anyone would buy sock water. Not if it was made from my socks anyway.

While the sock is in the shoe it’s not quite so bad. I think the fact it’s enclosed sort of helps in confining the smell. The problem was that I’d spent much of the day in enclosed spaces, and I was getting really paranoid that other people would be getting disturbed by them. It didn’t help that, and I honestly had forgotten this, I had another pair of socks, equally as disgusting, hanging off the side of my rucksack in a misguided attempt to dry them.

I’m really hoping that nobody noticed. Certainly everyone I came into contact with today was very nice to me. Some even hanging around long enough to have a proper conversation. So I’m going to pretend that it was ok. Or maybe they were just being polite.

It is something that I’ve struggled with on many of my hikes. Inevitably, at some point, my shoes and socks get wet, and from there, unless it’s a nice warm day, they go a bit rotten. This morning I had a choice between putting on a wet pair of socks, or putting on a very wet pair of socks. It was made particularly bad by all the marshes and bogs I walked through, but even on less boggy terrain, it happens at some point.

I feel that I need a better solution. I can’t think of one though. So, in the meantime, I do apologise to anyone I stood or sat near today. Although, I would like to note, that once I got to the hotel today, I washed both pairs in the sink. I just hope they dry before I need to wear them tomorrow or I’ll have the same problem again. I remain hopeful.

Everything is possible

When I realised I’d have to pack up very early in order to catch the first ferry of the day I was a bit worried. This was the first time I’d ever left a camp while it was still dark. And even though I knew that it really wouldn’t be so different, I’d just have to use my head torch, it felt like a big deal. So the sense of relief when I was on my way, all packed up, and knowing I’d be on time for the ferry was palpable.

It didn’t even affect me too much when, after going a few hundred yards, I realised I’d left my walking poles and had to go back for them.

It was very important that I got this first ferry of the day. As the busses and ferries are all working to a winter timetable, they are very infrequent. This meant that if I missed this ferry, I wouldn’t be getting back to the mainland today. Each element in the chain had to go to plan.

It was roughly as follows. Walk the 7 miles from my wild camp to the ferry terminal at Berneray. Catch the first ferry over to Leverburgh. 5 minutes later get on the bus to Tarbert. Wait 40 minutes then catch a bus to Stornoway.

Then after another bit of a wait, around an hour, but not enough time to have caught a later bus, get the ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool. And finally, get the bus from Ullapool to Inverness.

I think that’s why I was a little worried. I didn’t know where I should be catching the busses and knew I didn’t have much time to spare. Although as it happened, it all was rather straight forward. I’m not sure what we did before the internet though – that made it a lot easier.

Maybe I am that boring

After the initial fast walk, which got me to the ferry terminal in good time, today was just a case of being in the right place at the right time, and enjoying the ride. It turns out I’m quite good at that.

The first ferry had amazing views of the islands and, except for worrying about the smell from my feet, I really enjoyed it. I found myself being quite envious of the locals who were doing this as part of their normal Monday morning. The ferry was relatively busy as people were repositioning themselves after the weekend.

The first bus was a near miss. I didn’t know where to catch it so was initially heading in the wrong direction. Luckily I turned back on myself and saw it sitting waiting on the slipway. It was just a minibus. I sometimes think about if I’d missed it and the repercussions of that. It’s funny how I do that, I did catch it, so why think about the alternative.

The journey on the bus itself was incredible. Harris was incredible. The land is so uneven, big hills and mountains, with lochs everywhere, and houses wedged into places they really shouldn’t fit, surrounded by marches. It was beautiful. The lanes so narrow and undulating. The road seemed impossible. The bus driver waved to everyone. He knew who to expect to see and who would want a ride. I loved it.

The second bus used wider roads to get me to Stornoway. On there a lady was talking to me. She was telling me about the island. About the road. About how she’d ended up living there.

I thought we were having a good conversation, but then after I said something, she stopped talking. She was sort of slumped forward. Now, I did momentarily worry that she’d just died. I wasn’t sure what to do about that. I thought maybe that’d be the bus drivers area of expertise. Fortunately though, after a few minutes, she was awake again and looking at her phone. So, either she just suddenly fell asleep because I was boring, or, she pretended to fall asleep because I was boring and she wanted me to shut up.

The right decision

I did have moments, during both of the bus rides on the island, that I thought I should have carried on walking the Hebridean Way. A couple of times I saw signs where the path crossed the road. But, I spoke to two people, only one of whom pretended to fall asleep, and they both felt the path through Harris would be very boggy and difficult to walk. On top of which, the roads didn’t look like a viable alternative.

So, even ignoring the incoming weather, I think I was right to end this element of the trip. Now, I’m convincing myself here, but I think I’d done the best I could. I think I did well to get as far as I did because things were really against me. So I’m going to say that I made the best of it, and got as far as was possible.

I’m not really sure that’s true – but there’s a good chance it is.

Back to the mainland

So, it was with some sadness, but excitement for the journey, that I left the islands. I’d had a really good experience and I will definitely be back. I loved it here – even though it was sometimes a challenge.

As we left port some dolphins swam next to the ship, jumping out of the water. Amazing. I was very lucky to look at exactly the right moment.

The ferry ride was a joy. It was very empty as, due to technical reasons, it was only taking foot passengers (which did give me a heart attack when I tried to book online which showed no crossings for a week – I had to use a telephone to get a ticket!!). I got a seat right at the front with wonderful views all the way back to the mainland.

This trip has been as much about the travel as it has been about the walking. It’s been so much fun. I almost feel guilty for taking all the rides.

So, back in Inverness now, via another painless bus ride, and tomorrow, onto the Great Glen Way.