Based on the conditions yesterday I was fairly confident I would be taking a different route up through the islands. I didn’t think it would be any longer or shorter, I imagined roughly the same, but would cut out some of the climbs where the paths had become water logged. So, although disappointed, I didn’t particularly see it as cheating because I would still be walking the length of the islands, and it really wasn’t my fault. If anything, I was doing the least selfish thing, because I knew if I did hurt myself someone would rescue me and put themselves in danger. So yes, I was comfortable with this plan.

I am, however, struggling to justify the lift I accepted from someone, who I met on the ferry from Barra to Eriskay. He took me to some accommodation I booked, easier to justify, which would have been a 3 hour walk in the dark from the dock.

Now, the Ben of old, at day break, would insist on walking back to the port and then doing it properly, but this is Ben the rule breaker now, so I’m not going to. I must admit I have noticed a change in myself since I got caught speeding (a little bit). I’ve spent my whole life trying to follow the rules. I don’t think I’ve ever broken a law (well not an important one), but now I can’t claim to be squeaky clean anymore, so I guess I can now do what ever I want.

My only regret, I think, is that I didn’t get a chance to photograph the causeway between Eriskay and South Uist. Because that did look amazing. I thought the one between Vatersay and Barra was good but this one was impressive. According to James (the kind man I met on the ferry) it was 900 metres long. I was impressed. I think he told me it was made in the 90s so a relatively recent addition.

So, it’s official, I’ve skipped a bit. I hope I will be forgiven.

Should I sleep in the garden

I couldn’t believe how well I slept. The previous day had been stressful, and a little emotional, so I was due a good rest. But it was appreciated. I hadn’t slept very well for at least the two previous nights, and maybe longer, so I did wonder if sleeping in a tent was the way to go.

Often at home I don’t sleep well, especially when I have things on my mind. So maybe in future, when this occurs, I should just grab my tent and sleep in the garden. Something to consider perhaps.

Really though, I think I slept well because the day had been tough but successful. I felt a little proud that despite the setbacks and difficulties, and all the lying down in puddles, I managed to set up a camp and get myself warm and dry with just the stuff on my back. That did feel satisfying. It also helped that I could hear the sea all night which was very calming. I think people pay money for that sort of thing and I got it for free.

It was definitely a ten out of ten for the camp. I couldn’t have been happier.

Even packing up in the morning wasn’t so bad. It’s always harder when it’s wet as you have to make a lot of effort to ensure dry stuff stays dry, but all seemed to go well. Putting my wet clothes back on wasn’t as awful as I thought it would be either. I was pleased to be carrying on, glad I hadn’t thrown the towel in yet.

One more chance

The route from my pitch to the road went over sand dunes and a little beach and only involved getting my feet wet once. So it was a good start.

However, my idea of just using roads and avoiding hilly marshlands fell down after a few miles. I saw on the map that the path would head away from the road again but it looked like a decent path. I thought that maybe yesterday’s path had just been a one off, and all the other ones were going to be well made. After a further mile I realised I was very wrong as the path climbed up into the mist.

It became very boggy again. Finding a route through some parts was difficult due to deep water. The way was well marked but sometimes those markers sat in the middle of small lakes. I was so glad I had my walking poles so I could check how firm the ground was before I committed to it. But sometimes there was no choice but to wade through. I suppose wet feet aren’t so bad.

The hardest parts of these paths are when they descend. That’s when it’s easy to slip and fall over. I had a few near misses and maybe fell once (although I’m not sure if I’m getting that mixed up with yesterday) but really I got down ok. Determined now to learn my lesson. I knew there was one more big climb left to go before I reached the ferry, and when I passed the turn off for it, I did wish I could have headed that way, but I knew that would be a mistake and forced myself to stay on the roads all the way to the terminal.

I suppose, if the weather had been better, I may have risked another climb. But really the main benefit is the views, which I suspect can be spectacular, but it was so misty today that I wouldn’t have seen them anyway.

Time to warm up

I got to the ferry terminal (hut) about 2 hours before the next crossing. Which I didn’t mind because I had some planning to do.

I knew the ferry would not arrive in Eriskay until about 4:30 which is similar to the current sunset. I was worried about finding a wild camp straight away, and maybe in the dark, so decided to get a hotel for the night. I’ve really not seen that many good spots as everything is so boggy.

While I was searching I started to get very cold as my clothes were wet and I’d stopped moving. Luckily there was a little heater in the waiting room which I decided to stand next to the whole time I was there. I was the only one in the room so I didn’t feel selfish. I found it funny how lucky I get when I desperately need something.

In fact, from that moment on, everything went my way. I met James on the ferry who kept me company for the whole trip, gave me a lift to my hotel, told me a few stories about the islands, and gave me some Salmon from his farm for my tea. It was a lot as well. I’m worried I didn’t thank him enough.

Then when I got to the hotel I was met by Archie, the owner, who was so kind and friendly. The hotel has a kitchen as well so I warmed up the Salmon I’d been given. I’ve actually got the place to myself, and it has exactly what I need. I just sometimes seem to fluke into things.

When I was in the terminal, shivering, not knowing how I was going to find shelter after the crossing, I was thinking how hard things were and how I wasn’t strong enough. And then, a little later, everything is handed to me on a plate.

Someone is definitely looking out for me.

Oh, and I was definitely right to accept that lift. The roads are very narrow with no lighting. I would not have liked walking along them in the dark for three hours at the mercy of cars. I figure being alive is more important than meticulously completing a walk. There – justified!!