I suppose I thought, because there had already been a few issues in even getting up to Scotland and with my health, that once I started my walk everything would fall nicely into place and things would go smoothly.

I was slightly disappointed when the weather forecast was updated and I realised the first day would have heavy rain. I even toyed with staying at the hotel for one more night to wait out the worst of the rain and also give my stomach the chance to recover. But I knew what one of the big issues on these islands is the wind, and as the forecast was for those to be moderately calm, I decided it would be best to just get on with it.

It was all road walking to the start point so those 5 miles were covered fairly quickly. I was getting wet but it wasn’t so bad. There was some heavy rain but I’d say it was manly light. The views weren’t so bad either – although I imagine they’d be something quite special on a better day.

The thing is, I have to be honest, even at this stage I was struggling a bit. I wasn’t in a happy place. I’m not sure if it was just the weather, or the frustration at having to walk so far to just get to the start, but I was wondering if I’d cope in these conditions to the end. I kept in my mind though, that at the end of the day, I’d be tucked up, warm and dry in my tent, and I’d feel a lot happier.

Then the path left the road and headed over some hills. At first I was delighted. I thought I was going to have to stay on roads a lot longer so this was a real treat. As I got to the top of the first hill I looked down at the causeway between Barra and Vatersay and admired the views.

Then it got difficult.

I’m not sure how long or far I walked from there, to where I’m camped now, but it was difficult. The ground is very waterlogged. I could see a path, and it was generally well marked, but it was either water or boggy. And extremely slippy.

Occasionally, as I climbed and descended, I could see the sea and some beaches, which on another day would make me happy, but today was difficult. I fell over several times. I made slow progress. My mind was trying to work out how I could complete this challenge. I was failing on the first day. I was wet, covered in mud, and a bit nervous. Embarrassed as well for taking this on. I felt stupid.

I was trying to come up with a plan but nothing seemed sensible. Everything filled me with dread or shame. I didn’t know what to do.

I wanted to call Jenny but she was busy at work, plus I had very little signal, so I didn’t do that. I was going to tell her I wanted to come home. But even that didn’t seem possible.

Soon I was descending again and I could see some houses in the distance. I knew I’d be able to get to a road that I could walk on and then I’d decide what to do next. That made sense. Get off this tricky bit, just concentrate on staying upright, and think about the rest later.

But then it all changed. I found a bit of ground firm enough to pitch a tent. It was a miracle. It was only 3:30pm but I wanted to get in the warm so I stopped. Pitched up, took my wet stuff off, dry clothes on, quilt wrapped around me. And the main thing, now thinking clearly again. Things didn’t seem so bad. In fact, everything seemed pretty good.

Is someone trying to tell me something

I was really excited about this trip and quite organised really. I’d booked my train from Leicester to Glasgow for the Monday in good time. I’d booked a hotel for that night which was next to the train station where I’d catch my train to Oban the next day, which would give me plenty of time to catch the ferry I’d also booked, that would take me to Castlebay on Barra. Once on Castlebay I had a hotel for the night so I could begin my walk on Wednesday, super fresh and raring to go.

So, I was disappointed when I got a message from the ferry company to say there was a chance my crossing would be cancelled. This would be a pain. Too many things to change. I was worried. However, Jenny, the sensible one, said that I should still go to Oban and then get a room there if the ferry didn’t run.

Then, on Monday morning, I heard the news that there had been a train derailment near Shap, so my train was likely to be cancelled as well. I try not to be selfish, and in my defence no one was hurt due to the derailment, but I did instantly focus on how it affected me. There were a lot of subtle messages telling me that I shouldn’t be taking this trip.

And with that tap on my arm, I was ok again

Somehow, it all worked out for me. I managed to go via Edinburgh on the train and so avoided the incident. Calmac cancelled 2 ferries but not mine. The trip was back on.

The hotel in Glasgow was great and I woke early to catch my train to Oban. The only slight issue now was that I’d developed a bad stomach. Hopefully it was just nerves.

At Queen Street station I was listening to the announcements from the train tannoy whilst sitting waiting for my train to Oban. There was the usual stuff about where the train was going, and although I knew I was on the right one, it was nice to hear the confirmation. I was still feeling uneasy though. Why was I doing this to myself. I’d put my rucksack on the seat next to me, even though I wasn’t meant to, but the train was quite empty. I thought I might not get told off.

When the guard came down the train to check tickets I was worried he’d say something. He did. He was really kind to me. He gave me a really friendly tap on my arm. I don’t know why, but it calmed me down. It was a perfect gesture.

The train ride to Oban did not disappoint. And neither did the ferry to Castlebay. I would definitely recommend making that trip.

The ferry ride did become a little rough for the last couple of hours. I was fine but then felt a little queasy. I don’t think it was the ferry though. I think I might just have a bad stomach that kept me up at the hotel. Another omen?

Might tweak my plan

I have a feeling a lot of the paths are going to be like the one today, and that would be a problem. However, I think there might be a cycle route that I could walk instead.

I’ll try to keep an open mind but it does seem that these paths don’t handle lots of water well. I guess it’s just because it’s a very boggy landscape. So, I’ll look at each one, but if in doubt I’ll take the cycle way (which is basically the road). I will miss out on some views, and camping might be tricky, but seems like the best option.

If that’s fails, I’ll defer walking the Hebridean way for a dryer time and try to get straight to Inverness for the Great Glen Way. I seem to remember the paths being a lot more solid.