It was a bit of a scramble to get to the flat bit of ground I’d spotted. There is always a danger when that happens, that when you finally get to the perfect looking spot it turns out to be covered in heather or nettles, or on a slope, but in this case, once I’d arrived, it was flat and just covered in grass.

My main concern was that I was on a bit of ground that I shouldn’t be. It wasn’t too close to the edge but it had been difficult to get to, which made me think I was being foolish being there. Not just breaking a rule, but being reckless. But it seemed safe enough and no extreme weather was forecast, so I decided to stay. The sea always sounds so close to these camping spots but that’s just because it’s so noisy. It’s good noise though.

Normally when I get to a spot I put my rucksack down and lean on it, or use it as a headrest, and relax for a while. This is nice after a days walking but also allows me to assess if anyone is around or if there is anything I should be concerned about. I used to wait until it was almost dark before putting up the tent but I’m a little braver now and tend to just put it up when I start to get cold or it’s raining.

All seemed well for the first 30 minutes and then something moving caught my eye. I looked up to see a goat looking at me. It must have only stood there for a few seconds, we acknowledged each other, and then it turned and went away. So I’d found the catch with this pitch.

I did consider moving on and finding somewhere else, but that would have been a few miles more walking, plus it was getting late, so I decided to stay put. The goat seemed friendly enough and hopefully told all his mates that I was harmless.

Tintagel

I’m so glad that I’d stopped when I did the night before. The pitch was out of the way, flat, and out of the wind, so I had a really good nights sleep. One of the best I’ve had on this trip I think, although I might be biased because I really needed it.

I checked my map and decided that it best to walk inland slightly before Tintagel so I could get some breakfast and go to a shop, and then retrace my steps back onto the coastal path to then complete the descent and climb at Tintagel Head. This seemed to make sense otherwise I’d been tackling more climbs than was necessary just to get supplies.

So, now full of breakfast and with enough food to get me through the day, I was in good spirits as I continued on. The path here is good and very picturesque, but nice and hilly.

I met someone who was walking towards me. They were on holiday and staying at a caravan park about a mile from Tintagel so had decided to take the ‘quick’ walk there. As he walked the final steps of a big climb he said it seemed a lot longer than the signs made out. That made me chuckle.

Pacing myself

I know this stretch, all the way up to Hartland Point is difficult. I know it’s just constant up and down. So I’m hoping that this time I won’t be disheartened when I make slow progress.

The path itself is very good and I love the way it winds around the cliffs. And it does occasionally give some rest bite from all the altitude changes as there will be sections that run along the tops of cliffs.

So I didn’t worry when it took me ages to get to Boscastle. It also meant that I was happy to spend time there to get something to eat and read some of the information boards. I was quite enjoying this laid back version of me.

A few days ago I’d worked out roughly when I might finish. It looked like it might be on Friday the 6th June. However, since Padstow I knew that I wasn’t going fast enough for that and it was going to be a few days later. I’d said before that I shouldn’t try and keep up with me from last year and, at least on this occasion, I was going to follow my own advice. Besides, it’s really nice to stop early and not worry about the miles covered in a particular day.

I think part of the problem before was that I was still very new to wild camping so I’d keep on walking until it was nearly dark and then set off again first thing. Now, if I find a spot I like then I just stop and relax. It’s a lot less stressful this way.

I did nearly take this to an extreme today when I saw an amazing spot at about 4pm. And if it’d had some phone network, so I could keep in touch with people and work on my blog, I reckon I’d have stopped there and then.

So another wild camping

I did consider going to a campsite today but there weren’t any in a convenient spot. I had enough supplies so I figured one more night without a shower would be ok. I’m making an effort now to not stand too near to people because I really must stink. I’ve been wearing the same clothes now for about a month so I imagine it’s not pleasant. Maybe a shower would help in the near future – but it’s not so much the smell but my skin feels horrible and sticky. Sorry, too much detail I think.

I find now, once I’ve decided that I’m definitely going to wild camp, and that I’ve got everything that I need, I totally relax. I think it’s because I’m not thinking about multiple options anymore, trying to plan things out, it just becomes a simple case of finding somewhere. I always thought the more I did this type of thing the easier it would get, and that is true, it has taken a little longer than I hoped though. Just goes to show you should never keep on trying.

Crackington Haven tomorrow

I’ve ended up in the perfect position. I’m well off the path so won’t be disturbed, I have fantastic views, I can hear the sea, and somehow I’m out of the wind. I’m about 2 miles short of Crackington Haven where I know I can get breakfast tomorrow.

Then it’ll be a case of seeing how far I can go on the hard slog up to Hartland Point. I know it’s tough going so I’m going to take my time and enjoy the views.

One thing I do like about this sections is all the switchbacks carved into the cliff to elevate the path up the steeper sections. I can tell from the worn ground that some walkers prefer to go a more direct straight up route, but I think my knees prefer using the switchbacks. It’s a lot easier.

I may consider another wild camp tomorrow but then I have to get a campsite as I’m low on battery power and I think the need for a shower is hovering around the critical mark.