Licked better

Day 19 walking the South West Coastal Path

I do like dogs. We have cats at home and people might think I’m not a dog person, and I suppose I don’t particularly want to own one, but I do like them. Which is a good job really because when out walking dogs have so many different reactions to me that I’m glad I’m not scared of them. If they jump up and make me muddy I don’t care, if they bark at me I don’t worry. The most common thing they do is walk directly at you, and no matter how many changes of direction you make, they continue into your path. Maybe it’s some kind of instinct.

So today, just after I’d recorded my first talking video, a dog bounded over to me with its owner it hot pursuit. Apologising for something that hadn’t happened yet. And his dog, I’m going to say embraced, it wasn’t really an embrace, but felt like it, and then licked my face. It was such a friendly dog and what I needed.

His owner continued to apologise but I told him that wasn’t necessary. He said the dog had no personal bounds or something. I honestly didn’t mind. Luckily I’ve been bought up to not worry about dogs at all.

It’s funny because this man reminded me of my Great Uncle Bernie. Both how he looked and how he talked. So in my head now, while reciting this, it was my Uncle Bernie talking to me. He was such a nice man. I told him about my knee and how it was hurting and I’d just stopped to rest it. But now I was enjoying the rest so much. He did say I’d picked a good spot. When I told him I thought I might have dozed off he said he loved that state between awake and asleep, when your mind drifts but you’re still aware of your surroundings. I guess that’s why I was enjoying it so much because my surroundings were perfect and my mind was calm.

He told me it was around three hours to the Lizard and that Henry’s campsite was there and he felt it was something special. He’d been to a wedding at the campsite. Now I’m here I know what he means.

We also spoke about the coast path just after Coverack. This was the bit that had really made my knee scream at me. He said there is actually a higher route there which is much easier. He made me chuckle because I think like this, but he said he knows the paths are sort of defined by their landscape, but he really felt this part could do with some smoothing. I really couldn’t agree more, it was a particularly difficult section.

I really enjoyed the whole interaction. It made me feel good and sort of safe and cared for. What a really nice man.

Coverack by breakfast

I was slightly worried about this section. Porthallow to Coverack. Last time there had been so many diversions and one of the diversions had been closed. I’d got lost so many times it had made me quite frustrated. I hadn’t got to Coverack until lunch time.

Today it was a breeze. The path still diverts inland but it was easy to follow, and most importantly, open. It briefly goes through Porthoustock which was really useful as I used the toilet there and they had a tap to replenish my water. I noticed here a few properties for sale, which surprised me, as I figured they’d all be snapped up for holiday lets. Maybe something has changed. And then I was back on my way.

I got to Coverack by 9am. This was so much earlier than I could ever have dreamed off. As it was a Saturday I expected it to be quite busy but it was very quiet. The only place to eat seemed to be a little cafe, which Jenny had previously ate it. I called her as I was feeling a bit out of sorts and she told me to go and get some breakfast. I did as I was told.

Someone is helping me

In the cafe was a little boy with his Dad. It reminded me of when my kids were little and cute. It turns out they were the son and partner of one of the women running the cafe.

I think they were on their way to do some kind of work, the man anyway, I think the boy was about 2. I thought this because he had a scraper and a screwdriver. I’ve been needing a screwdriver for the last few days because my right pole keeps on getting shorter through the day and just needed a screw tightening. I found myself staring at the screwdriver like it was a pot of gold.

After ordering my breakfast, a toasty, I plucked up the courage and asked the man if I could use the screwdriver to tighten the pole. It only really needed half a turn. Initially he looked a bit confused but then did it for me. What a bit of luck. And more of a big deal than you’d think because I’ve been putting a lot of weight on that one and now it stays the right length.

Another group of walkers then came in and we got chatting. My gloom really was lifting. I was feeling really lucky and so happy to be where I was. We talked about so many different things. I don’t think I went on too much. I learned a lot about them so I must have listened.

A bit of a bump

As mentioned before. The path after Coverack is a bit lively. It’s almost a scramble in places. Big steps which only a giant would find normal. It’s actually fun, I do like these interesting bits of path, but my knee wasn’t impressed. So I have to confess I was relieved to get off this section and then take a rest. This was my very long rest, but it was a perfect rest. I’d made good time to Coverack so there was no hurry. And it was what I needed because as soon as I started walking again my knee felt ok.

I even made a small diversion onto a beach for a paddle. I was definitely enjoying my environment.

We’re at the Lizard

I do love this part of the coast. It’s just so beautiful and feels remote.

Thanks to the advice I’d received I decided that I’d get to the Lizard, which hadn’t seemed possible during the scramble after Coverack, and then go to the campsite. I fancied being clean tonight. It wasn’t too far, and, although a little painful at times, my knee felt ok. I had plenty of time as well so I could take lots or breaks.

Soon I could see the lifeboat station that is embedded into the cliff face. I always marvel at this. It must have been so much fun to design. Plus it meant I didn’t have far to go now.

From Church Cove to Lizard point is a lot easier than I remembered. When I originally walked it with Jenny it took quite a while to complete, but I think that time we visited the lifeboat station, and it’s so interesting we probably spent a long time there.

It was shut today so not an option anyway so I headed straight to the Lizard. One more descent and climb and I was there. Easy. And I’d made it to the most southerly point of the UK. Yay.

Thirty minutes later and I was receiving a warm welcome at the campsite and I was definitely ready for a warm shower and rest. It’s been a rollercoaster of a day. I’d ended up in a good place.

Date

17 May 2025

Day of the trip

Day 19

Distance Covered

18.10 miles

Steps

31078

Total ascent

955 metres

Calories Burnt

3465

Moving Time

6 hrs 24 mins

Average Speed

2.8 mph

1 Comment

  1. Tom Simpson

    I’ve caught up today on the blogs and video. Two milestones, over halfway and reaching the UK’s most southerly point, well done!! The scenery is stunning! So appreciate you sharing the experience with us!
    On you go!!

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