An amazing side to walking the path is that you find, and see, places that other people don’t get to. I find it fascinating that, for example, the beach at Perranporth is absolutely rammed with people, but I get to walk around a headland here and see several isolated beaches, totally empty.

I do wonder how easy it would be to get to them. I’ve seen one or two people walking around so I suspect there are car parks within a mile or so. I would say it’s definitely worth the effort. But then I suppose we’re all different. On a nice sunny day some families like nothing better than getting in queues of traffic to visit Skegness from Leicester. I personally can’t imagine anything worse. It’s a good job though as it means these gems are left undisturbed.

So noisy

It was a good camping spot on the top of the cliff but it was very exposed. Because of the wind and the fact I couldn’t peg out the tent properly I think, in hindsight, that it was probably a little foolish of me to stop there. Luckily though I’d done just enough, for the level of wind I got, to secure the tent. Unfortunately, it was so very noisy.

I did get some sleep but it wasn’t good. I elected to sleep in my walking clothes, just in case I needed to evacuate quickly, and that also is never condusive to a good nights sleep. I felt it best though. I’d learned lessons from previous camps that hadn’t gone so well. The problem with that though is that’s it’s not very comfortable and everything just feels sweaty and horrible.

The night was survived though and I felt pretty cool to have spent it in such an amazing place. I’m sure I’d do it again. Some of the pegs had come loose in the night but I’d used them all so there were still enough securing the tent. I’d got away with it.

Confession time

I don’t like Cornish Pasties. There, I said it.

It’d been a few hours walk from my camping spot to Polruan and then, by ferry, onto Fowey, and I was hungry. I didn’t really want to sit down anywhere and ideally would have just liked a sandwich or something so I could get moving again.

The thing is, the pasties look so nice. And they advertise all these lovely fillings. It’s hard to resists. So I bought a steak Cornish Pasty and then walked down the street a bit to eat it.

I only ate half and I cursed myself for falling into the pasty trap again. They’re just not that interesting. It feels like it’s mainly pastry and potatoes with a tiny bit of meat. And they’re expensive. I was quite disappointed but I suppose it had fuelled me up a little so did serve a purpose.

I then set about finding some water as I was low and then navigating my way back to the coastal path. I do find walking in places like Fowey difficult. There doesn’t seem to be any order to anything with fellow pedestrians making erratic direction changes or just randomly stopping in front of you. I’m sure I saw one lady start to reverse. I’m always happier to leave these areas but they do serve their purpose for getting supplies. I do now understand my reluctance to stay in the towns for long and why I sometimes leave before I’ve eaten or bought what I need.

Two for one

Once out of Fowey I realised it actually wasn’t too far to Par and St Austell. Last time, I’d stayed in a hotel in Par due to the weather and then the following day I’d only walked the few extra miles to Pentewan.

I knew that the hotel had been quite inland and then I’d walked even further to an Asda, so there was a lot of messing around, so I wondered if I could actually make it to Pentewan. Technically it would be two days worth of walking on one but this time I wouldn’t be messing around inland with shops. Plus I really wanted a campsite. I wanted a shower and a good nights sleep. I figured if I made it there I could have a short day tomorrow as a reward.

Generally, once I get an idea like this in my head, that’s what I do. So once I got to Par, I called the campsite to confirm I could turn up late, and decided that was what I was going to do.

A tough few miles

I walked across the beach at Par which was nice but there is a big factory blocking a direct route to the coastal path before St Austell so it’s routed inland a bit. It’s easy walking though so, although not exactly inspiring, there is the opportunity to get a few miles clocked up. Then it’s to dodging golf balls on a golf course but at least back to the sea front.

Considering the path is now running through St Austell it’s really nice and well maintained. I was conscious though that I was now near the hotel I’d stayed at and it was 5pm. I still had one day of walking to do in a couple of hours, so I reminded myself that it had been a very short day.

As the path leaves St Austell it gets really tough going. I had remembered this from when I recently walked it with Jenny. Although now it was overgrown as well so I was starting to find it very difficult and I was wondering if I’d make a mistake trying to get to the campsite. I just kept on thinking of the shower I’d get and being able to sleep in clean clothes. Oh, and I’d bought some strawberries in Par and I’d be able to eat them as well. I had to keep thinking of all the good stuff because I knew I was getting grumpy and questioning why I was doing the walk at all. I knew I was tired as well so my brain was just trying to trick me.

Hardship makes the good better

It was worth it. So worth it. I finally got to the campsite and the feeling of relief was indescribable. I pitched up and then walked to the local pub for a soft drink, crisps and a mars bar. Everything tasted so good.

Then back for a shower and then tucked myself up for the night. I should have cooked but felt too tired. I think they do breakfast here so I’ll have something more substantial in the morning. It feels amazing to be relaxing. Definitely worth those last few miles of discomfort.

Lazy, low mileage, day tomorrow. Probably.