Rushing to get the ferry across the Avon before it closed at 4pm I was hatching a plan.

I knew that low tide on the river Erme was about 9:30pm which meant I’d probably be ok to cross at around 8pm. Assuming I was on time for the Avon ferry I was strongly considering carrying on and then crossing the Erme and trying to find a camping spot shortly afterwards.

Maybe then, I could even get through Plymouth tomorrow and be in Cornwall for Friday. I knew the last part was a bit tight because it takes a while to get through Plymouth and previously I’d found it difficult to find a place to camp until well after passing through the City.

It did seem rather marvellous though, that I could make such good progress, crossing three estuaries in one day, and one of them being the awkward, but fun, Erme. I was picturing the headlines of my success in my blog as I walked along.

Then I got to the ferry, with 20 minutes to spare, and a guy who worked there persuaded me to do something different, and definitely more sensible.

He said I’d be better using the campsite on top of the hill just after this ferry, chill out for the evening. Then get to the Erme for low tide in the morning. He said I’d be in roughly the same position but would have had a shower and a relaxing stop at a campsite.

He made sense. I’m at a campsite. I’ve had a shower. It was well overdue.

So much talking

I probably didn’t get walking until about 7am. Unless my wild camp is in a particularly dodgy spot, I don’t worry too much about being seen in the morning anymore. And despite this tardiness, generally I still don’t see anyone. So 7am was quite early for me.

I headed towards the ferry for Salcombe, but stopped at Mill Bay to use the public toilets. That’s one good thing about wild camping on the coastal path – plenty of toilets. As I was about to leave, a council van turned up and a man stepped out. He was looking after the toilets and I told him how clean they were. He made me laugh because he put on rubber gloves and said he would still be using these. He then talked to me for around 30 minutes about walking and how he loves Sea Kayaks and all his holiday plans. He was a really nice man.

Needless to say, I didn’t get the first ferry!

As we were talking two ladies arrived. They asked the man where the coast path was. He said they should ask me as I’d just come from there. The lady looked and me and said “you’re doing it backwards”. So I’ve been told.

Different walk

I spoke to someone earlier in my trip who said a walk through the same river is always different because the river has different water. Or something like that anyway. He certainly said it better. But this walk has been like that. Even though I’ve generally followed the same route, because I’m at certain parts and different times of the day, and the weather is different, and the sea looks different. It feels like a different walk. That before considering how much I’ve forgotten.

The crossing over to Salcombe was an example of this. Even the walk to the crossing. It was all so different. I must confess I found it more exciting last time though. I’m pretty sure the captain was the same man but it was hard to tell as he was wrapped up against the elements last time.

Once in Salcombe I grabbed breakfast and then went to a very depleted Coop to get something for later and then headed out of the town to try and catch the next ferry over the Avon. I kept on stopping to talk to people but luckily, after the first couple of miles, I didn’t see anyone. And, what a difference the weather makes. Last time I nearly decided to abort my walk due to the high winds. This time, a little windy, but basically perfect conditions.

Best bit, worst bit

Sometimes people ask me what my favourite or least favourite parts of the walk are. It’s a good question. But I really do struggle to answer it.

Initially I try to think about the actual path and the views. Or maybe the places. But the questions got me thinking. And I think the answer is more to do with the challenge of the trail and how you overcome it. So, off the top of my head, two things spring to mind.

The first was when I was battling the weather and terrain around Bude in North Cornwall. It was a difficult day and a challenge. At the end of the day I went to a campsite, pitched up my tent, and had a warm shower. That warm shower is one of my fondest memories of walking that section.

The second. Well that’s simple. I was craving strawberries for a couple of days and managed to get a punnet from a shop. I didn’t eat them straight away though. I waited until I’d set up camp for the night. Waiting until there was nothing else for me to do. Then I ate them. Now that was a nice feeling.

I’m not sure if this makes me bad. I really do appreciate the scenery, the places, meeting all the people. The freedom. That’s all amazing – and honestly it’s hard to pick one view over another. Like picking a favourite child. But, if I’m asked my favourite bit of the walk, then it comes down to a different criteria.

I’ve just made myself want strawberries again!