Like an old friend

Day 10 walking the South West Coastal Path

At the third time of trying I finally managed to correctly follow the coastal path through Beesands. It’s not a massive difference to the overall distance but it was certainly satisfying. Even though it is signed it just doesn’t look like there is a path that way.

Well today, I managed it. Sadly, quite proud of myself!

There is something I really like about Beesands but I can’t quite work out what it is. I was speaking to a couple who were heading that way and I told them I liked it. They smiled. I said I didn’t know why. Gloomy face. I hope they like it. I could definitely live there.

It’s such a quiet place, I guess in part because the bank holiday weekend is over, and just feels like you’re back in time. Although getting to it by road can be a little tricky as Jenny will testify.

A marked improvement

I remember the walk from Dartmouth to Strete being a bit painful. I know I wasn’t feeling so great last time, but I just remember it being a bit boring and too inland. Well today I loved it. I was almost skipping along. Yes, it is inland but that was ok. I suppose I was on fresh legs which does make a difference. Oh, and I’d had a good nights sleep.

I nearly walked past a shop, thinking I’d get something later, when my brain made me stop. I actually didn’t have any food left except for a few peanuts and a bag of sweets. Why was I walking past? It was quite a quaint store but I don’t see why that would put me off. I was being silly. So I went in and got supplies.

It was such an obvious decision as well because I don’t know of any shops between here and Salcolmbe so I have no idea what I was thinking I’d eat in the evening. Now supplied up I was set up for the day. The only remaining niggle was the level of power I had left in my battery banks, but they would last until tomorrow.

Wow – getting braver

The path eventually joins back with the sea although it actually runs down a bit of a dip next to the road for the approach into Torcross. I did think to walk on the higher path nearer the sea but the official path was easier underfoot so I sacrificed my views for a bit. I see a lot of the sea on this walk so a mile or so without it won’t hurt.

When approaching Torcross I did notice the sea was a little wilder than before. The waves were crashing up high. I tried to capture this on the video but it never looks quite so exciting. I will continue to try though.

In Torcross I went into a pub to have some food. I probably wouldn’t have bothered and just pressed on to Salcombe but I was thinking I could charge my battery banks a bit.

And this is when it happened. I even shocked myself. I asked the man serving me if he could plug in my charger behind the bar while I ate. And he said no problem. What a result. I didn’t get a huge amount of charge in them but enough to last another day I think. I now had everything I needed to spend another night wild camping. Although I’ll need a shower soon – I smell.

Over indulged

I wasn’t sure if I’d be able to get all the way to Salcombe. These last few days, where I am compared with last time, has not aligned at all. In fact I’ve always been about half a day behind. Which has worked out nicely because I feel I’ve been getting better camping spots and have been approaching settlements at more convenient times for shops and food.

However, last time I took half a day off so there was a chance I could make it to the same spot today. That’s if I didn’t feel the need to have long conversations with people. I talk way too much.

Anyone who knows me well will be aware that I can get very paranoid after a conversation. Especially, but not exclusively, with people I don’t know well. Actually, scrub that, it’s probably everyone except Jenny. Basically, I talk to someone. Have a great chat. Then afterwards go over the whole conversation in my mind and note times when I’ve said something daft, talked to long, didn’t listen well enough. The list goes on. I was doing that today. My first offence was with a couple who were walking the path and also raising a bit of money for charity. I felt sure I talked about myself too much. The second couple, and happy birthday Colin, were really kind and nice, and offered advice about wild camping (I won’t repeat word for word but it was nice and direct), but again, I talked about myself again too much. Even plugged my website. But I suppose the negative thoughts did help past the time during the hours when I didn’t see anyone.

It’s a much longer walk from Start Point to Salcombe than I remembered. After some initially narrow paths on the edge of cliffs, it opens up a bit and is level next to fields. I was grateful for the easy bits though. I think in my excitement of finding somewhere to eat and charge my battery banks I’d eaten far too much. My body was not happy. I felt a bit sick. Luckily though, that did pass, but I made a note that even if you walk a long way you can’t have fish and chips, a large coke, a hot chocolate and then a chocolate chip ice-cream.

The last few miles are quite spectacular. You would not want to trip though because it’s a long way down. It was getting quite late now, around 8pm, and normally I’d be getting nervous, but I felt ok. Actually, I felt better than ok. There was no one around and the way the sun was setting and shining on the sea and cliffs looked so interesting. I thought that not many people get to see this. I was very privileged to be here.

Back again

I’ve ended up in the exact same spot as before. I think I should probably have stopped a little earlier as there were some nice places and also a potential beach. But I wanted to upload the data from my watch to my website and none of these places had any reception.

If it’d been getting dark I would have not carried on, but as I still had the light I didn’t see the harm in getting nearer to Salcombe.

It’s funny, because I hardly remember any of this part of the walk from last time. From Start Pojnt to here, well it’s like I’ve walked it for the first time. But I recognised my old camping spot immediately. Very strange.

Date

06 May 2025

Day of the trip

Day 10

Distance Covered

19.87 miles

Steps

39082

Total ascent

942 metres

Calories Burnt

3345

Moving Time

7 hrs 9 mins

Average Speed

2.8 mph

1 Comment

  1. Tom Simpson

    Over a third of the way, well done!
    Enjoying all the updates, video and written word.
    I think I can speak for those who meet you along the trail, as one who met you on trail (Coast to Coast 2023) it’s a pleasure walking and talking with you, enjoyable conversation.
    On you go!

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