Today took me from my camping spot overlooking Sea Town, over the Golden Cap, into Charmouth. Then onto Lyme Regis, through a forest to Seaton and then finally onto a campsite slightly inland after Branscombe Bay.

It was a good day although slightly marred at the end by my right knee giving me some pain. Some of this due to errors I’ve made and others because of bad luck in the sense that this knee has always been a weak spot for me when backpacking as it struggles with the extra weight. At least I have an incentive to not put on too much weight, not if I want to be able to move anyway.

Sometimes say yes

I’d forgotten how far the walk was from Sea Town to Charmouth. Last time I’d walked it in a bit of a panic because I was trying to find somewhere to camp. I have no idea why I was worried though as there were many potential spots. I guess I was still new to it all – and I still worry now.

I was finding the walk quite different but I was thinking it was because I hadn’t eaten enough. I was rationing my water as well.

It was a major boost when I finally started walking down the hill into Charmouth, and noticed the path would not be diverted my at all. Apparently it was initially moved quite inland since a landfall but now was close to its original position.

At the bottom I met a guy call Rich whose dog had just gone to the toilet in a really awkward spot (on purpose I think to challenge Rich) and he (Rich, not the dog) started talking to me about wild camping.

He told me where I could get food from a bakery – he said all the cafes were overpriced and poor – which is really good information. Perfect for what I needed.

He then told me he was a fireman and that I could go to the station and use their showers and even make myself something to eat. I initially thought I wouldn’t but then, after the bakery, I figured I needed water and they seemed like a good source of water. So I headed for the fire station and left with 3 litres of water and feeling good about the world. Thanks Rich.

Easier when you know the way

The walk to Lyme Regis is diverted quite heavily due to cliff falls from quite a while ago. It wasn’t so bad this time as I’d done all my ‘going the wrong way’ last time.

I was speaking to someone on holiday and he said he thought the diversion would be permanent as the locals had extended their gardens to where the path still existed. So I think we need to get used to it.

However, the approach to Lyme Regis through a woodland, was so pretty. So many bluebells. I spoke to a passing couple of walkers about how I wished my garden was like this, and she agreed, adding that the low maintenance would be great as well.

There was a slight problem in Lyme Regis because the Boots I thought was there had closed down. I needed sun protection and had just run out of mine so that was disappointing. Tesco didn’t have any so I ended up buying some very expensive spray from a general beach shop near the beech. I nearly didn’t but as the sun was relentless I think that would have been stupid. On a walk like this it’s easy to neglect things to just get moving but it will come back to bite you.

Great Path

I love the path between Lyme Regis and Seaton. It’s really quiet, interesting, pretty, and the best bit, generally in the shade. The sun was really strong today so that was such a relief.

The path is not easy but also not as bad as the warning signs suggest. It does take a long time though. And I was started to feel the weight of my pack. I was getting tired. But the path took the edge off my discomfort.

I’ll definitely walk this again, maybe though without a backpack.

More shingle

Another pleasant variation on my route came just after Seaton. The route used to go from the sea front through so housing estate and then back onto the path. Today though I was able (thanks to a local explaining the route) continue along the beech and then up some steep stairs onto the cliff. Despite the shingle I felt I’d made a much more direct route and was certainly nicer.

From here it got harder. I’d called the campsite and was told to take my time as they’d come out to me when I got there, so I wasn’t worried. But things were taking their toll on me. I got through Beer ok but noticed how slow I was on the climb out.

Then, on a very narrow part of the path, where it winds down in front of the cliff, and eventually to Branscombe mouth, I noticed my knee was hurting. It’s not been very good all trip, getting over styles is hard, but now it was hurting. I knew I needed to do something going forward, as if I carried on doing exactly what I was doing now, I wouldn’t get around the whole path.

I still had to get to the campsite today so would push through the discomfort, but started to think about what changes I could make to improve things. It’s easy to let these moments spiral and I was determined to not let that happen. It was disheartening but there are always solutions. First thing though, I had to get to the campsite.

I arrived at just past 8 so before dark. I had a really warm welcome from the owner, set up the tent, had something to eat. Then decided to get some sleep so I could think more rationally the next day about what to do.