So much to learn from today. First thing, never, ever, show off about a brilliant new system you’re employing. Last trip I was boasting about my three pairs of socks system and literally the next day lost one pair.
Well today I was declaring how good my water system was. Well I ran out of water. I’m going to blame Lulworth as they didn’t seem to have any taps (despite a sign saying to take plenty of water with you to Durdle Door). But ultimately it was my mistake. Running out between Durdle Door and Osmington Mill though was as close to disaster I think I’ve been. I was really struggling. It’s been a hot day as and I need to take that into account.
I’d not eaten enough either. I’m basically abusing my body and expecting it to still work how I want it to. Well it won’t. So Ben, listen to yourself, get plenty of food and drink down you and keep yourself fuelled.
Right, consider myself told off.
Ignoring this massive negative though, I’m pleased to have got as far as I did. Tomorrow should be ok for getting around Portland, and Weymouth is just before that to get supplies. I think if I stop making mistakes I’ll be ok.
Why the long face
The day started really well. If feels so long ago but looking back, that really was the perfect wild camp. I felt secure, was just a few feet from the path, and overlooking the sea. Sure, I’d lost my microphone thingy and there had been an issue with my website. But really, most things were going well. When I look back this, I’m sure, will be one of my favourite spots. Although I am building up quite a collection.
Some ladies passed my camp as I was packing up at around 7am. They were trying to find a way to the sea for a swim. They told me they’d been saying to each other what a wonderful place to camp and how they wished they could do it. Well I’m so lucky because I am doing it. So I darn well better enjoy it!
Now, I didn’t sleep well again. I think I was too hot. And I was dreaming of lost microphones and failed websites, so I’m hopeful that tonight, now I’ve fixed the website (with Jenny’s help) things will improve on that front.
Must get through the danger zone
That title should almost read – must get to the danger zone, because at my first 5 mile break I still wasn’t there. I wasn’t exactly going fast so it was going to be along day.
I loved the walk from my camping spot towards Kimmeridge Bay and felt so grateful that today I could hear no gunfire so I felt sure I’d be safe to cross the ranges. In fact, I think it was the walking that lifted my spirits. I’d been lucky with the weather again as well, but I’m a bit worried about the heat later in the week. It feels like when I tried this walk before and getting burnt in the sun. Plenty of sunscreen today though.
It’s funny because the path feels very detached from the sea even though it’s right next to it. Like a noisy picture, but you can’t touch it.
During my rest some really nice men passed who were out for a walk. They stopped for a short break with me and I rabbeted on about what I was doing. They didn’t stop for long but gave me one of their cakes – which was very much appreciated. One of the guys gave me a bit of his as well so I did well there. I’d only had some peanuts for breakfast so it was a good breakfast pudding.
You meet the nicest people on the trail.
One thing of note though, I get asked a lot where I’ve started my day. When I wild camp, I never have a clue. Another gentleman spoke to me and asked me and I told him I’d camped between a steep down and a steep up. He said that describe a good proportion of the path.
A needed breeze
I made it successfully onto the Lulworth ranges. It was such a difference. Last time I sat at a table at a cafe wondering what I would do. My hopes dashed. This time, a quick stop to get some water and I was on my way. No taxi required for me this time.
People always say that the scenery is worth the pain. I’m not so sure. This part of the path is particularly undulating. I know most of the path has a similar characteristic, there is one climb, just after a bay that is so tough.
I just got my head down and, very slowly, put one foot in front of another. Trying not to stop, just steady plodding. It seemed to work but it was mighty difficult. I’m not sure 52 year old Ben would have made it. I’m so glad it’s my birthday tomorrow and not today.
Although 51 year old Ben did need a lie down afterwards. Appreciating the benefit of a cool breeze at the top of the hill.
Just resting my eyes
The rest of the walk to Lulworth was tough. Really difficult. But I managed it and correctly followed the path. Easy to go wrong here. A slight annoyance is there is an obvious shortcut walking round the beech at Lulworth Cove which would save miles and a hard climb. It was temping but I couldn’t do that to myself so the difficult route was followed.
My rest break – actually it was an additional break – at Lulworth Cove nearly over ran as following some food I lied down on a lawn and shut my eyes. I seriously could have just gone to sleep there and then.
I was very glad I’d forced myself to get some food. It was so busy, and I didn’t really feel like eating, so would have been easy to just carry on walking. Fortunately though good sense prevailed and I got some food.
I’m so good at making the wrong decisions at times like this so it was quite a miracle that I did the right thing. Let’s hope that this continues. My mood lifted almost straight away but in the back of my mind I knew I couldn’t hang around too long as getting to the campsite at Osmington Mills would definitely aid Monday.
Signs need more information
The last time I walked from Lulworth to Osmington Mills I may have had fresher legs. Maybe. Because I’d taken a taxi from Kimmeridge Bay to the cove I obviously saved all the climbs and descents on the range walk. However I had walked all the way from Swanage and this time I’d not done that. So it’s a toss up which was more difficult.
I found it very difficult today though. My brain had decided to forget a lot of the terrain after Durdle Door so it all came as a bit of a shock. I was obviously having issues with my water supplies so maybe that was the difference. It’s so hard to tell. But either way, it’s a fairly serious walk.
What amused me, about 1 mile from the campsite, there was a sign pointing back the way I came stating – “Lulworth – 5 miles”. Now, in its defence there may be another route, but if this means the coast path, well I would definitely get caught out. 5 miles – yes. But not 5 normal miles.
I’ve had another thought as well. I’ve been noticing my heart rate today and it’s been high most of the day. I found it a little worrying. On my walks at home it ticks along around 90. But today, the lowest I saw it was 130 and most the climbs at 180. So I think slopes should be measured in heart rate and not gradient.
I was extremely pleased to get to the campsite and I was lucky as the warden was doing the rounds so I paid her. I did worry about turning up so late, around 8:15, with no reservation, but this was not a problem and I was allowed to stay. I got the tent put up in the last of the light. This is definitely a day I’ll be proud to look back on, but maybe not repeat. I wonder how many other difficult sections I’ve forgotten!
Enjoy the great weather Ben. Rich B
Too hot! Although I’d probably moan whatever the weather.
Beautiful photos! We love that stretch from Lulworth to Durdle Door, albeit we have never done it with a full pack.
Well done Ben.
On you go!!
Thanks Tom. I hope I did it justice.