When planning this trip I did look at how far I might try to get on my first day. I initially thought I could make it to Osmington where I know of a nice campsite, but when I started looking at the distance I realised it would be over 30 miles. I continued my stupid thoughts and thought, oh maybe I’ll just wake up at 5 am and get moving early. Stupid Ben was striking again in terms of overestimating his abilities.
Fortunately, after discussing this with Jenny, and wanting to confirm that I was being stupid, my stupidness was confirmed. So that plan was put in the bin, and then got out the bin, but then put back in the bin.
I came up with another tentative plan that I would walk about 15 miles on the trail and then backtrack a little inland to get to a campsite. I thought that distance was too short really but I liked the idea of getting to a campsite. Things were looking good as the day neared its end because I could see that the coastal path was going into what I thought would be a flat part and therefore quite fast, only to see a really steep descent and big climb. Which I do now remember from my last time here. I remember, after the climb, talking to a lady who was going the other way. She was nearly finished doing the whole thing. I don’t remember feeling jealous.
Well, I have news, I’ve done the steep descent and now called it a day and I’m camping before the big climb. Hopefully no one will mind me camping here. I feel quite proud about how disciplined I’ve been today about taking breaks and time to enjoy the moment. It’s not something that comes naturally. Tomorrow I can hopefully get through the firing ranges and then on to the campsite I know in Osmington.
Later on in this blog, I do moan about a few things, but I think on balance it’s been a good day and I think after a good nights sleep I’ll be raring to go.
Calmer than before
I didn’t sleep too well at the Premier Inn in Bournemouth where I decided to spend the night prior to my trip. It was a bit noisy and I was also nervous.
The trip down from Leicester had been ok although I did miss my connecting train in London. That was ok though as the guards were all very friendly and helped me negotiate the train schedules and managed to only be about 30 minutes late into Bournemouth. It was so much better than last time though where I went to Poole and decided to start the walk on the same day, ending up in Swanage but rushing to get to the youth hostel before it closed. That wasn’t pleasant so I’m grateful for a much better start.
The walk to the hotel last night wasn’t much fun and, again, my rucksack still isn’t quite right, and I found the couple of miles quite hard work. It had been a long day though so I won’t dwell on it. I’ve made some adjustments to my pack now so we’ll see how I get on.
Another improvement, I got to the Sandbanks ferry after a really pleasant walk along the sea front in Bournemouth. It was about 5 miles which is slightly annoying as it wasn’t yet on the SWCP so none of the miles count. I wasn’t in a rush though so once I got to the ferry I sat on a bench and relaxed for an hour watching it do a few trips. I’m determined to stay calm despite my brain telling me it’s time to panic!
Head to Old Harry
I finally decided it was time to get on the Ferry and start the walk. So much better this time.
For a start, I went the right way and also managed to take a picture of the SWCP start/end sign. So two ticks compared with last time. The start of the walk is flat. Walking just next to the sea – at one point actually in the sea because I wasn’t paying attention. I was lucky as there was enough compacted sand so the ground was fairly solid. Solid for sand anyway. I dread the future sand dunes but I think that’s for another day.
Through Studland – which made me miss Jenny – and then on a minor diversion due to erosion. Now, I think it was a slightly different route than last time but as I was losing the light back then it’s hard to be certain. However, diversion or not, I really enjoyed this part today. Appreciating the fact I wasn’t in a rush. The weather was being kind as well – not sunny but dry and calm.
Old Harry is a good looking set of rocks. Again, in the haze and darkness last time they looked very foreboding. But today they just look nice. What a difference a day makes. I then took some time to eat lunch and admire the views. I’m sure some of the days to come won’t offer me the same luxury.
Don’t tell the bride
It was funny arriving in Swanage while it was still light. As it’s a Saturday it was busy so I wasn’t totally enamoured with the place but as towns go it’s quite nice. I didn’t see too many ‘Kiss Me Quick’ hats.
Have I remembered that right. Kiss me quick? Doesn’t make sense.
The approach to Swanage was different this time. In the dark before I hadn’t noticed the path turn right along the tops of the cliff and I’d ended up walking along the beach and past beach huts. My route last time was better as the official route follows the road for a bit but as least I’ve done it correctly now.
I was going to say it’s amazing how much you don’t remember because after Swanage there were some very wide parts of the path that I’d forgotten that run through Durston Country Park. But really I suppose it’s amazing how much we do remember considering we have to pack it all into our brains. There was a wedding being held in the restaurant castle type building and the ‘happy’ couple had just tied the knot overlooking the sea. It looked really nice. Don’t tell Jennny as we can’t afford it.
Not long after, the paths narrow again, moving closer to the cliff edges, and I can tell by the landscape that I’m getting near Kimmeridge and the section with the ranges. Oh, and he’s a lesson on taking time to look back. The caves in the picture are totally invisible when walking over them and if I hadn’t looked back I would have missed them completely.
It was now 11 miles since I’d left the Sandbanks Ferry so I decided it was time for another rest. Trying my best not to look at the time and how late it was getting and now knowing exactly where I was going to camp for the night.
I need to get trail fit
There have been some amazing views as I continued on my way and the terrain, baring a few undulations was quite easy going. I know from experience that it gets a lot tougher so I’ll take it while I can.
Some of the cliff forms are amazing and I find it fascinating how big chunks of the land has just disappeared into the sea during falls. I definitely will not be camping near the edge of any of those, or indeed underneath them.
What does worry me a little is that I’ve been getting tired and I can certainly feel the weight of my pack on my feet. I’ve only done 15 miles of the trail today and it feels like more (although I mustn’t forget the miles done before the ferry). I’m hopeful that once I get bedded in it’ll be better.
Maybe I’m not as fit as I thought I was.
Another blow is that I’ve lost the receiver for the wireless microphone that I got for the trip. So that’s really got me down a bit. I put it in my pocket and it must have fallen out. Proper amateur hour from me.
However, hopefully I’ll come up with a solution. I normally do. But currently I’m kicking myself for being so careless.
Right, stop the moaning, the positives are as follows. I’ve found somewhere to camp and it’s free. I didn’t panic. My backpack is feeling more comfortable. I’ve been allowed to do this trip. Oh, and a really nice man running past where I’ve stopped just slowed down to check I wasn’t dead – which I thought was very considerate.
So, considering all that, I feel obliged to enjoy it.
We met you earlier and shared some Welsh Cake with you! Good luck.
It was great meeting you guys. And thanks so much for the cake. It went down very well.
My tradition begins again, morning tea and catching up on Ben’s progress, I so enjoy it!
Well done overall, good start, and staying positive. If memory serves me right from meeting on the Coast to Coast walk, today is your Birthday, if so, Happy Birthday, enjoy the day!
On you go!
Tom
Thanks Tom – well remembered