I’m going to be honest up front on this post and tell you the end at the start, just not to give the wrong impression, but I eventually made the decision to leave the trail early. I’m very disappointed and still, even when writing this, thinking I maybe should have carried on. I must have changed my mind several times during the day about what I was going to do, but in the end, and after talking to Jenny, we decided it best that I leave the trail early, fit to fight another day.

At the moment I’m happy to have made the decision, but I know that there’s a good chance I could have carried on and got to the end, so that upsets me.

Slippy progress

I started the day quite early because I had a plan. Strong winds were forecast for Saturday (it was currently Thursday) and I knew from my previous time on this path, that if I was quick I could get beyond the devils staircase on Friday, which would then mean just having a day of walking in the storm on the Saturday but ending the day in Fort William. I wasn’t sure how sensible this would be with the storm predicting high winds of over 40mph but I decided it my best option. If I didn’t have to be back in Leicester for Monday I would probably have planned to sit it out around Glencoe for a couple of days, but for me that wasn’t an option.

So, happy with my plan, and after a good nights sleep, I packed up and headed onto the trail. I even took care of the essentials, despite my haste to get on, and stopped soon after to replenish my water supplies from a small stream next to the path. Things were going well.

I encountered my first issue quite soon, and frustratingly it slowed me down. There had been snow overnight. Not much, but enough to cover the path. It looked really pretty and actually was why I wanted to walk this path in winter. However, it covered all the ice. There has been ice on the path since the start but as it was visible it could be avoided. Sometimes it’s a bit awkward, as it can cover quite a large area, especially where small waterfalls that run on the actual path have frozen, but at least it’s visible. Now it was hidden as well.

I just tried to be careful. Starting to recognise where the ice might be. And it really wasn’t too bad but I was occasionally slipping because the ice was, and I know this sounds daft, really slippy.

First doubts

As, I suppose was inevitable, I eventually fell over. Nothing too spectacular but I hit my left knee onto the solid floor as I went down. I don’t think it’s too bad but does feel a bit sore. I was annoyed at myself because I obviously hadn’t been concentrating enough or I’d have worked out it was there. I had to slow down a bit more and be more careful. It was a real shame as well because the path and surroundings looked so amazing in the snow. If I’d had more suitable footwear I’d have been having a great time. In truth, I was enjoying the challenge. However, I decided, that if the path didn’t improve, I’d catch a train from Tyndrum and end my adventure. I was almost certain this is what would happen.

Or maybe not

I knew the path eventually goes under the railway line. It’s a tunnel that gets lower as you walk through. By the end you have to walk crouched down. After this the path goes slightly higher up the hill and I remembered it was quite wide and from where I was now, looked clear. I decided I’d get there and things would improve.

Before the tunnel the path follows the river which was also partially frozen. It was clearly a cold day but I actually felt nice and warm. Except for the ice everything was perfect. The mountains were disappearing into cloud but then reappearing as I was gifted with blue skies for a while. Then, cloud again would come in and I’d get snow, it was really nice.

I eventually got through the tunnel, making my body crouch down in a way it wasn’t happy with, and headed around a nice icy slope and made my way up to higher ground. And, it was still the same, ice under snow. But I was getting good at this now. I could work out where the ice was and was actually walking at a reasonable pace. I was feeling good. A better mood, I believe, than I’d been in when I walked this section back in April.

From here I estimated it was 3 hours to Tyndrum, which, after picking up supplies, should give me a couple of hours daylight to get to the Bridge of Orchy. Also, I remembered the path was soon to go through woodlands, which also might have less ice, I was feeling really good, I thought the plan was going to work.

Follow the footsteps

The start of the woods near Crianlarich, I was told, is the half way point of the West Highland Way. So that’s something. I think, despite the climbs to come, actually the easier half to walk as well. From here there’s an initial steep climb, which was ice free, and soon I was enjoying walking through the forest. I even stopped at one point to take a layer off, as I was getting hot, and even took the time to take a few pictures. Things were good.

As I was walking through the forest I saw I was no longer the only person on the trail. There were footprints. Human ones. And these footprints showed me where was safe to walk, and when the footprint had slid, where there was ice. I don’t know who had laid this trail for me, but thank you.

Once out of the forest, it’s fairly flat ground to Tyndrum and I upped my pace. Stopping a couple of times to look at the mountains around me and how much different they looked in the cloud to how they were last time I was here.

Pit stop

I didn’t want to stay long in Tyndrum, I didn’t have the time for a sit down meal, although that would have been nice. The best feeling though was finding a litter bin. I’ve been carrying all the packages and packets from the food I’ve had for miles now so it was a relief to finally get rid of them. It did occur to me how much waste we produce and was there a better way, as I then went into a shop to buy more goods with plastic packaging!

As I left Tyndrum it started to snow again, quite heavily this time, but I was all stocked up now for the rest of the trip, so I’d walk until sunset and then find a camp for the night.

Something changed

A few miles out of Tyndrum I spoke to Jenny on the phone about my plans. She knew I’d been thinking about getting the train and she wasn’t totally convinced about my reasons for carrying on. She gave her blessing but it was reluctant. She did point out though that just because no snow was forecast for tomorrow, the ice I was struggling with wasn’t going to melt. It did make me think.

The snow was really heavy now but I was feeling ok. I was warm and progress was ok. At one point a lorry on the nearby road blasted its horn, and when I turned to look, waved at me, so I waved back. I thought that was really nice. Except for Tyndrum the nearest thing I’d seen to a human was the footprints in the forest. So I appreciated the interaction.

The path wasn’t really that bad, but at one point there was a small descent which again was covered in ice, and it made me think about some of the bigger climbs later on. Would they all be this icy. Was I being foolish carrying on, and trying to be fast to beat future weather. All it would take, even here, would be one slip, maybe a twisted ankle, maybe worse, and I’d have to call for help. People would then have to come out in these conditions to rescue me. That wouldn’t be fair. And then, as if to emphasise this, I nearly fell over on a perfectly innocuous part of the path.

Just one more camp

I called it. I wasn’t going to complete the West Highland Way this time. I felt so sad, so disappointed, even tearful, so many emotions. I don’t like to fail. Could I have got away with it if I’d carried on – probably. Was it worth the risk to myself and others – probably not. If I’d had enough time I’d have just waited it out. But I need to be home by Monday, and besides, leaving Jenny at home with my adult, yet child like children, was also a bit unfair.

It would be all too easy to feel sorry for myself and forget what I’ve been allowed to achieve. Sure, I fell short, but I’m so honoured I got this far. So many people aren’t even given the chance to try, their circumstances not allowing it, so I’m the lucky one.

Silver linings galore

The decision was made. I was going to abandon the trail. But it doesn’t get rid of me straight away.

I decided to carrying on walking just shy of the Bridge of Orchy and find a pitch and then get a train the next day. There were trains available that night but they didn’t get to Milngavie until late and I didn’t fancy that. So I was treating myself to one last night on the trail.

I was starting to get worried as the snow was really coming down hard and I couldn’t see anywhere to camp, when out of the gloom appeared the perfect spot.

I so enjoyed putting the tent up in the snow. I had to be careful as things I was placing on the floor were quickly getting covered by snow, it was really exciting. The feeling when it was eventually pitched and getting myself and my kit into the dry was pure bliss.

I got myself warm, cooked some food, and then set about telling my family my plans.

I’m looking forward to one last night on the trail, in the snow, on a great pitch. And, as a bonus, my train tomorrow should be in daylight, and I’m hoping for some spectacular views.