It was such a relief to get walking. I didn’t sleep at all well last night as I was really quite worried about it all. Again, I don’t think it was the actual route or anything like that, it was just a general worry that probably doesn’t make any logical sense.

I was quite aware though that as I was doing this in the winter, not a time that most people take it on, and I suppose that there is good reason for this. So my relief was unmeasurable when I left the hotel and had a quick chat with the lady on reception and she guessed what I was doing. She joked that I’d picked a more sensible time when I’d previously walked it in April but did say that she wouldn’t see me back until Sunday as I would be successful. I did appreciate her confidence in me. But, and this was the confidence boost, she said someone else had just set off from the same hotel, complete with backpack and tent, for the West Highland Way. So at least it wasn’t only me that was pushing the boundaries a bit. She then pointed out what a lovely day it was, but unfortunately, freezing. I said I was due back at the hotel on Sunday but if it all goes wrong she’ll see me sooner. She said she’d see me on Sunday – I appreciated her confidence.

On cloud nine

It took me a little while to sort out all my stuff and pack up what I wasn’t walking with into my motorbike. There was a close disaster due to the low temperatures as one of locks on my panniers had frozen overnight and I couldn’t turn the key in it. I think I got lucky because I just breathed on it for a minute and that seemed to defrost it enough to turn the key. So, with everything locked up, I was on my way. It’s funny, I must have checked each lock multiple times and I’m still slightly worried that I’ve left one unlocked.

I made a slight detour before reaching the start of the path to go to Tesco and buy some hot chocolate powder in little sachets. I delayed myself a bit and should have bought them in Aldi the night before but I forgot. I was half tempted to not bother and just get going but I figured I’d appreciate a hot drink later.

Then I found the start of the trail, took a selfie or two, and I was on my way. And wow did it feel good. The day was perfect, clear sky, and because it was so cold everything was covered in frost. It made the views all the more impressive. It really added something to the experience. This was exactly why I’d chosen to do this in the winter and, so far, delighted with my decision.

I felt very comfortable as well. I had a fair few layers on so I didn’t feel cold at all. Just perfect really. A few people out walking dogs chatted to me and pointed out what a great day it was. My rucksack felt good. I couldn’t honestly think of anything I’d have rather been doing. All the stress of the previous two days, the lack of sleep, all that didn’t matter now. I was glad I was here. All I had to do now was put one foot in front of the other and try to enjoy myself and appreciate this time I had.

Need to stay wary

The cold, I’ve already discovered, does come with its hazards. The main one so far is the ice. I’ve been fortunate I think because it does look like everything was quite wet before but it’s all frozen now. That though does mean that all the puddles are frozen over and it’s quite thick ice. Really not too bad but something to watch out for.

The other I discovered when I tried to drink from my water bladder. The mouthpiece had frozen up so I couldn’t get a water through. This was easily fixed though by leaving it in my mouth for a few minutes to melt the blockage. As a positive though the water is nice and chilled.

Realising how cold it actually was, and that you mustn’t let a water filter freeze, I took mine out of my rucksack and into my shorts pocket. I figured it’d be warmer there. My body temperature has so far solved all of my cold related problems.

They’re open

When planning, and the reason I’m carrying so much food, I assumed the cafes along the route would all be closed. Even in peak season you can go a fair few miles and not see anything, but I’d convinced myself that they definitely would not be open. I was wrong. There’s only been a couple of places that I’ve passed since the start but both of these have been open. I didn’t fancy anything at the time so didn’t go in, but it was comforting that maybe, later on, I will be able to get a warm drink or some food if I fancy it.

The road is long

I didn’t used to know how our brains remember everything. I now know, they don’t. The amount of information they store is really quite incredible, and I honestly do remember quite a lot of the route from today. But I didn’t remember quite how long the road section was. It’s a very quiet road and it’s not as bad as some sections on other paths, but I think my brain had condensed it in my memory so I thought it was shorter.

It was nicer this time though, as it’d rained on this section in April, so I had a marvellous view of some of the mountains to come. I even stopped on a bench at the roadside to eat some lunch. I really didn’t think I was hungry until I started to eat. The chocolate bar I had felt like it’d been in a freezer.

Being sensible

After the ‘small’ section of road the path heads into a forest which eventually leads to Conic Hill. There was a chance I could make it there, and I knew that camping was possible, but I realised that I’d be arriving there around the same time as it was due to get dark, which is around 4pm. I therefore decided that at 3pm I’d start looking for a spot to pitch and if I found something reasonable I’d stop.

This might actually be one of the benefits of doing this in November because I’m forced into short days. In April I could carry on beyond 9pm which really encouraged me to carry on far too late. Now I’m forced to stop.

My friends always joke that I have a degree in maths but can’t add up. Well, I did some mental calculations and worked out I needed to do 17 miles a day to cover the distance in 7 days. This is quite wrong. It’s more like 13. I think I probably need to give the certificate back!

But, and it’s good news. Just before 4pm I found a spot in the forest, a mile or so shy of Conic Hill. I had plenty of light left to pitch my tent, and I’ve covered about 15 miles. So ahead of schedule and settled in nice and early.

Warming up

My list of errs, I imagine, will be long. Once I settled into camp I wanted to cook some noodles. I’ve decided to bring my meths burner this time but I couldn’t get it to light. I was trying to use a sort of flint lighter and it just wasn’t catching the meths alight. So no hot drink or warm food for me tonight but I do have some sandwiches so I’ll be fine. I didn’t fancy the washing up anyway and the last lot of water I collected looked (which I would have cooked with) looked a bit dodgy so maybe this was a blessing.

It’s only 7pm now and I’m in my bed trying to warm up. It’s so cold. Forecast to go to -5 Celsius tonight. I feel much warmer now than when I first got in the tent so hopefully I’ll get a decent nights sleep. I’ll be keeping my hat on.

If I do survive the night I’m really looking forward to Conic hill early tomorrow. I’m glad I stopped short of it today as I get to witness it with the early sun and that might look quite impressive.