Recollections may vary
A recap of my South West Coastal Path adventureI think the phrase, recollections may vary, is usually used to describe how different people might remember the same event. However, I came up with the title because I wanted to write a summary post for my time walking the South West Coastal Path and I realised how my thoughts and feelings about it have changed. How sitting here, writing this now, my memories have changed and parts of the experience have been filtered by time. In some of the more extreme changes, parts of the walk that were unpleasant, sometimes even bordering on traumatic, have actually become fond memories. Or, maybe if not fond, memories that I enjoy to look back on and feel a sense of achievement or pride that I overcame adversity or discomfort and, then came back for more. I suppose I think more of the outcome rather the anxiety of the moment which enables a more positive recollection after the event.
I really wanted this post to be about my favourite parts of the coastal path walk. To have a think about some of the places that really stood out to me and maybe even talk about areas that I wasn’t so keen on. But thinking back, I realise that this is quite a difficult thing to do. I think this is because the coast path is long, really long. I know that others have walked the whole coast of the UK, and there are people who have achieved even greater feats, but even so, with over 600 miles of coastline just on this small section alone, there is just too much to take in. And most of it, with very few exceptions, is worth a visit. Thinking this way forces me to realise how lucky I was to have had the opportunity to walk the entire length. I was fortunate that I had the strength and determination along the way to carry on so that I could eventually look back on my achievement. But it was more than that. There really is nothing special about me, I’m pretty average at most things, so hopefully, if I’ve given my friends and family (and anyone unfortunate enough to be reading this) just the spark of an idea that they could do something a little different from their usual day to day activities, then it make this walk even more worthwhile.
So, I’ve now explained what this post won’t be. I suppose I shouldn’t be too disappointed that I can’t go into the virtues of each part of the path and give a kind of review of each section because I am not an author nor a travel correspondent. I think if I was asked ten times which was my favourite part I’d probably come up with a different answer each time. It would depend on my mood or what I was specifically missing at the time I was asked. The good news is that I did record each day on the trail as I did it so that may point towards some of the nicer, and less nice, parts. I’ve put together a sort of chart for each day with some data and with a link to the relevant blog post.
To make up for this lack of review of the coastal path itself I’ve done two things. The first is that I’ve thought about the adventure and written about how I feel about it, about how I would do it differently if I was to do it again, and some of the highs and lows. About how I feel about it now looking back compared with how I was feeling at the time.
The second part is good because it has involved me going on holiday again. Myself and Jenny have gone on a little road trip and have spent 5 days visiting and walking on various parts of the coastal path. We’ve stayed in hotels so it’s a very different experience but it’s been funny and thought provoking returning, and especially nice this time having some company. I’ll write a separate post about that.
Before I go on, I’ve collated some stats from my hiking on the SWCP. I was talking to Jenny while we were away about how, even though some sections of the path were quite relentless, where as soon as you completed a steep difficult climb, you were quickly presented with another, I tended not to focus on the whole but to tackle each section as it came up. Slow and steady. So if I’d seen these statistics maybe I would have been more nervous approaching the walk but I like to think that I’d have kept the same approach. I find trying not to worry about the difficult sections coming up, just trying your best on the current section is the best approach, and most of all, and I’m really bad at this, just trying to enjoy yourself.
Distance Covered
Moving Time
Steps
Calories Burnt
Total ascent
38,102 metres
Ferry Crossings
14
Days walking
Wild camps
I’ve been wanting to write this summary for some time now but never got around to it. The longer I left it the harder it was to motivate myself to write something, but that was really because I didn’t know where to start. That’s where the idea of going on a holiday, visiting parts of the trail, and hopefully reminiscing came from. Plus, who doesn’t like a holiday. Especially when I get to talk about myself and what I’ve done the whole time. Even I got bored of pointing at a bit of coast path and explaining that I’d walked on it and going on about the trials and tribulations.
However, it worked. Also, whilst compiling the summaries of each day, it reminded me of how great this walk was. How much I’d seen, how far I’d walked. The different emotions I’d experienced. It’s been a really useful exercise and I’ve thoroughly enjoyed it. Now, I’m going to be a bit cheeky here but I’m going to jump to the end, the conclusion if you like. And that is that, if I could, I’d do it all over again. I’d probably try to avoid some of the mistakes I’ve made, and maybe remove some of the times when I felt uncomfortable or stressed, but even if I couldn’t do that, I would definitely do it all over again. I’d do it tomorrow if I could. There is something really quite special about walking a long trail. And I honestly can’t explain what that is. Sometimes it’s really quite unpleasant but it keeps on dragging you back for more.
My first regret
I wish I could have walked the path all in one. Even when I set off in September 2023 I had a hope that I’d be able to complete it in one go. Unfortunately my start and end dates had been squeezed by events out of my control to such an extent that I would have had to walk 30 miles a day. I’m sure a stronger person could have managed it but it was definitely too much for me. The coastal path is not an easy path, in fact in some places I found it quite tricky, and there are some seriously steep climbs, so being overly ambitious was probably my first mistake. I was always quite keen to push on, sometimes at the sake of my enjoyment, and if I’d had a different mindset when I’d started the walk then I would have reduced the pressure on myself. This really is a lesson I never learnt as I continued to try and push myself to do too many miles, and when I couldn’t, I would feel bad about it. This is definitely not how you should feel about yourself.
I even did it for the last three days on the trail. In fact that was probably one of my more silly decisions. I was at a campsite near Barnstaple where a fellow camper advised me to take five days to get to Minehead. Unfortunately, I’d got it in my head I wanted to finish in three days. And that’s what I managed. But it was really hard work and I should have listened to him.
I suppose I should be pleased that my determination got me through, but I made it really hard for myself, and just taking those extra couple of days would have made it a much more pleasurable experience. I ended up walking over 12 hours a day and rushing. I had no time for anything. I didn’t update my blog for three days because I had no spare capacity. And then that became something I worried about. I really was so foolish. I can think back to numerous times when I could have stopped and spent the night at a nice location, but instead carried on, and in some cases, put myself in a situation where I was losing light with nowhere to camp.
However, I still do wish I could have completed it in one go. I’ve split up the sections below that contain details of each day on the path into three parts to reflect how I completed the SWCP as I don’t want to imply that I did manage it without any gaps. When I go back, I’ll definitely try to do it all without a break, if only so when I meet people on the trail, I don’t have to explain how I’ve split it up. I could just say when I’d left Poole and leave it at that.
Day 1
Poole to Swanage
Best Bit
Surviving walking in the dark and calming myself down
Distance
8 miles
Total ascent
204 metres
Day 2
Swanage to Osmington Mills
Best Bit
Overcoming obstacles and taking time to fix some equipment issues despite a nagging desire to make progress
Distance
21 miles
Total ascent
1,211 metres
Day 3
Weymouth and the Isle of Portland
Best Bit
My first wild camp. Even though wild camping was always the plan, actually doing it was a major achievement. For me, it involved a lot of courage (and the lack of an alternative!)
Distance
25.4 miles
Total ascent
687 metres
Day 4
Weymouth to Charmouth
Best Bit
Eating and drinking – I was feeling very worried, had sunburn and no idea where I would sleep. Then I found a place to buy a pizza and some drink and then walked to the perfect wild camp
Distance
25.9 miles
Total ascent
987 metres
Day 5
Charmouth to Branscombe
Best Bit
Lyme Regis – I was very low on supplies and sunburnt. Lyme Regis provided breakfast, the best cooling suncream I’ve ever used, a neck scarf to stop further damage, a tap to top up my water, and food supplies to cover the next day
Distance
18.5 miles
Total ascent
1,044 metres
Day 6
Branscombe to Exmouth
Best Bit
Being brave and going into a cafe in Sidmouth and eating fish and chips. Talking to strangers on the trail who were interested in what I was doing
Distance
19.8 miles
Total ascent
888 metres
Day 7
Exmouth to Babbacombe
Best Bit
Discovering that ferries are not an inconvenience but in fact brilliant fun and always mood lifting. A superb wild camp in the woods and beating the rain
Distance
22.5 miles
Total ascent
947 metres
Day 8
Babbacombe to Coleton
Best Bit
Surviving the rain and a really tough day. Strangers offering a warm meal and a room in their house (which I declined but was extremely grateful for). What seemed like the perfect wild camp with spectacular views
Distance
22.4 miles
Total ascent
1,111 metres
Day 9
Coleton to Beesands
Best Bit
Getting through the night. Learning so many lessons. Jenny rescuing me and discovering the quiet of Beesands
Distance
16.8 miles
Total ascent
952 metres
Day 10
Beesands to Salcombe
Best Bit
Amazing patterns on the sea. Back on the horse and straight into a wild camp in strong winds – but this time sheltered behind some bushes
Distance
12.7 miles
Total ascent
1,009 metres
Day 11
Salcombe to Bigbury-on-Sea
Best Bit
Starting the day with a wild ferry ride at Salcolmbe and then ending it by catching, with 5 minutes to spare, a much calmer one on a small boat in Bantham
Distance
16.51 miles
Total ascent
1,480 metres
Day 12
Bigbury-on-Sea to Noss Mayo
Best Bit
Crossing the River Erme on foot. Meeting a friendly stranger who told me where to find the perfect wild camping spot and spending time watching ships sailing into Plymouth
Distance
12.8 miles
Total ascent
807 metres
Day 13
Noss Mayo to Freathy
Best Bit
Finding a cafe and toilet after a really good nights sleep. Not scared about the wild camp or being caught. Three ferries.
Distance
26.8 miles
Total ascent
1,022 metres
Day 14
Freathy to Lansallos
Best Bit
Not getting murdered in a most unwise camping spot at the back of a carpark
Distance
21.5 miles
Total ascent
1,281 metres
Day 15
Lansallos to Carlyon Bay
Best Bit
The kindness of people – getting a lift from the coast path to a hotel inland, saving me from the rain
Distance
14 miles
Total ascent
1,046 metres
Day 16
Carlyon Bay to Pentewan
Best Bit
Being kind to myself and giving permission to have a short day and the comforts of a nice campsite and time to rest
Distance
7.3 miles
Total ascent
524 metres
Day 17
Pentewan to Gerrans
Best Bit
Enjoying myself and the scenery. A kind stranger giving me a beer and a pack of crisps when pitching up at the end of the day because I looked like I needed it
Distance
22.8 miles
Total ascent
1,533 metres
Day 18
Gerrans to St Anthony
Best Bit
Arriving back from where I had left. Which seemed like a backwards step. But I had shelter and I was safe, and Jenny was on her way
Distance
6 miles
Total ascent
414 metres
Day 19
St Anthony to Porthallow
Best Bit
Three ferries in one day – and catching the first with moments to spare before low tide
Distance
18.5 miles
Total ascent
861 metres
Day 20
Porthallow to Church Cove
Best Bit
Finding where I went Kayaking with the boys and then meeting Jenny in Coverack where she’d made new friends with a couple of ladies
Distance
15.5 miles
Total ascent
890 metres
Day 21
Church Cove to Porthleven
Best Bit
Finally reaching Lizard Point – this felt like a big milestone
Distance
16.5 miles
Total ascent
1,003 metres
Day 22
Porthleven to Tregurnow
Best Bit
The contrast of walking through Penzance and it’s feel of a forgotten town and then into Mousehole and the children playing in the harbour and everything feeling full of life
Distance
20.8 miles
Total ascent
819 metres
Day 23
Tregurnow to Cape Cornwall
Best Bit
Walking on the coastal path past Sennen Cove, watching the violent sea from the safety of the cliff. Getting in a warm car at Cape Cornwall with the rain pouring down
Distance
18.1 miles
Total ascent
1,172 metres
Anxiety
I often feel anxious. It’s a pretty horrible thing and it’s no help at all. I’m feeling it now while I’m writing this because I know I’m meant to be heading up to Scotland tomorrow to walk the West Highland Way again but I’m not ready. So anxiety is kicking in again because I’ve got a lot to do. The anxiety often doesn’t make sense but it always quite debilitating. If I could remove one thing from these walks it would be the anxiety, because it really does ruin everything.
On this walk I mainly got anxious when it came to finding somewhere to stay. These walks have done me so much good but I’m not sure they’ve improved that part of me. Maybe they have because I do overcome it, in the sense that I go on these trips, and I do always find somewhere to stay, but at the time it still feels bad. I can tell myself, “Ben, it always works out, you always survive”, but that doesn’t seem to stop it. Maybe it’s worth having the anxiety so you can feel the benefit when the situation you were panicking about is resolved and all is well again.
I do remember one particularly difficult day near the start of the trip. I’d got sunburnt, run out of water, run out of food, and didn’t know where I was going to sleep. It really felt like the world was going to end. I became very indecisive and wasn’t making any decisions, good or bad, I was just flapping. Eventually I found a place selling Pizza, and I got some water, and instantly felt better. A few miles later I found somewhere to pitch the tent. I wish I could have just removed all the anxiety as the outcome would have been the same, but so much more pleasant.
Look after the little things
One thing I really love, even though it scares me, it setting out on a new hike. When visiting parts of the SWCP recently I was imagining myself at each point in my walk and everything I had ahead of myself that I didn’t yet know about. It was an exciting feeling even whilst looking back. It’s easy though to not appreciate the privileged position you’re in as sometimes the walk can be difficult on both the mind and body. How I’d like to go back and experience again but without those negative thoughts.
It’s really important, and I need to learn this, to pay attention to yourself and remedy issues as soon as you can. It’s so easy to carry on walking with a sore foot or when you’re thirsty because you’re keen to get to a certain point or are trying to find a pitch before nightfall. However, you really need to listen and tend to anything as soon as possible. Even though, at the time, you may feel that time is getting away from you and you’re making the situation worse, that time you take to resolve any niggles will pay you back double. You’ll feel so much better for it and the walk will be a much more relaxing venture.
I have numerous examples where I’ve walked for too long, carrying on when I needed to eat, drink, get food, or whatever it may be. Each time this was a mistake and as soon as I did make time to tend to any needs things always got better. Despair often became elation and what seemed unfixable magically became just a little problem easily solvable. Always, always, take time to do what you need to do. And if that involves walking a little way off the path to get supplies, the so be it, it’s better than pushing on and suffering later.
Planning is good but not essential
When looking at the coastal path, before I started my trip, I was worried about the little details. I saw all the ferry crossings and was worried about when they’d be running, if I’d be able to pay with cash or card, would I get there at the right time. I like to know exactly how it all works before I get there. The Ben before walking would probably have tried to avoid the unknowns but I would have missed out on so much.
One great thing about completing this walk has taught me that sometimes it’s best to just see what happens. Sometimes I’d have to spend an extra night somewhere because of the timing of a ferry and tide and other times I’d be really lucky and just arrive at the perfect moment. It was kind of nice to just go with the flow. All my concerns about looking silly or being stranded were just wasted energy. On one section I probably took an extra day because of the ferries and tides, and I suppose if I’d done more research I could have timed it better, but it all just became part of the adventure. So generally, for something like this, I’d say to try to keep things flexible.
One word of warning though, I really should have done a little research on the danger area at Tyneham, that would have saved me a taxi ride and a return trip later on. Although I enjoyed my trip back to complete this section so who’s to say it wasn’t for the best in the end.
One of the better decisions I made was to not plan any specific camping sites and also to try wild camping where it was possible. I definitely prefer a campsite but I do get a thrill from a successful wild camp. I generally am a bit of a rule follower, possibly bordering on boring, so it’s quite out of my comfort zone, but sometimes the results can be amazing. Some of my best pitches were wild camps, where I’m alone on the path with just perfect views. I sort of felt like I’d won. One stand out thing to me is that feeling, after a long day, of getting into your tent, just as it starts to rain, and being warm and dry. I love that feeling, sometimes I think about it when I’m struggling to sleep at home, its so comforting.
The other benefit of not booking ahead is that there is no pressure to be somewhere. The walk becomes more fluid and you can adapt to the terrain or weather as required. I’ve heard stories of hikers having to miss out sections on a multi day hike as they have accommodation booked and need to be at a certain place at a certain time. Leaving things more fluid means the only pressure is the pressure you put on yourself (unfortunately I’m quite good at putting pressure on myself).
Day 24
Kimmeridge to West Lulworth (and back again)
Best Bit
Just great to fill in this part that I missed due to the ranges being active. An amazing part of the coastline
Distance
19.4 miles
Total ascent
1,108 metres
The people you meet
Another regret. I don’t stay in touch with people. Maybe this is a good thing as I wouldn’t necessarily know what to say. But, a massive, huge, amazing part of walking the SWCP is meeting people. I’ve not met a single person when I’ve been on a hike that I didn’t like when I spoke to them. They are all so nice. A lot of people are interested in what you’re doing, or comparing notes it they’re doing the same. With fellow backpackers we can talk for hours about what we’ve experienced, tips for what’s coming up (if we’re going in different directions), and numerous other things. I always feel like I talk too much, and get paranoid about it, but it’s not so bad when I’m on the trail.
I think, living in built up places, we can get a feeling that people are unfriendly and sometimes even rude, but on the path this is not the case. It gives you hope that most people are good and nice. I always come back from my trips feeling happier about the world and always much more optimistic.
Being a snail
There is a YouTube channel I sometimes watch in which a couple decided to buy a canal boat and tour the whole of the UK canal network. This is definitely something that I could see myself doing but, unlike hiking, there are currently too many barriers for me to realistically be able to realise that dream. However, I can sort of do it vicariously through them.
They’ve actually completed this challenge now but continue to live and travel on their boat and one of their viewers asked if they’d ever live in a house. I can’t remember the exact answer but the gist was that they would, but only if you could lift the house up every week or so and move it to a different location. I very much understood where they were coming from. I think I’m the same. And that’s what hiking gives me.
It’s two things really. One is that you’ve got everything you need on your back. Life does become quite difficult in terms of survival but also so much simpler. You have everything you need and that is all. My house is full of stuff and sometimes that stuff gets out of control. When backpacking there isn’t much stuff, and if you don’t need something you’re carrying, then don’t carry it, it weighs something, and the backpack is heavy enough. Having that simple existence is very refreshing – it’s like a detox.
The other is always moving on. I’m sure I’ve said this many times before, but when you move from place to place, time seems to slow down. And when you look back it feels like yesterday, or even the start of the day, was a long time ago. I really love that about walking and travelling. That’s why, even when it’s giving me a good beating, I just come back for more.
Appreciation
My friend Tom told me that hiking changes people. It’s certainly changed me. All my hikes have made me different but the SWCP has really been something special. It’s slowed down time. It’s made me realise how you can wish your life away. How the mundane eats away time and you don’t even notice it’s gone. I love looking back on my time on the path and how long it took, how I’ve got so many memories, the things I’ve experienced and how it’s made me stronger, more confident.
I do feel I’ve let myself down a little. I did spend a lot of time whilst walking not enjoying myself. Finding it difficult. Worrying about where to sleep or where to get food. Having painful feet or getting frustrated by the wind and rain pummelling me. Sometimes in fear, actually being scared by a situation. I feel I should have enjoyed it all the time. But all this makes you appreciate things more. I never thought I’d be so pleased to see a public toilet, or a shop, or the sun come out. I think that’s what walking can do. It gives you time and broadens your ambition and makes you realise anything is possible. You don’t have to stick with the mundane, or what you think you should be doing.
I met a young lady just after I passed Harland Point. She was really struggling. She was upset that the walk wasn’t really what she wanted it to be. She expected to be walking in nice sunshine on an idilic path on the coast. She wasn’t expecting it to be so hard and, to be fair, the weather was not being kind to us. But I really hope she persevered, because even though it might have been tough in that moment, when she eventually looks back on each day, even the difficult ones would feel worth doing.
Like I said before, I found it hard, sometimes scary, often uncomfortable. But if I could go back to Poole, and do it all over again, I would not hesitate.
Day 25
Cape Cornwall to St Ives
Best Bit
Great to be back on the trail. Such a rugged unspoilt coast line
Distance
17.2 miles
Total ascent
819 metres
Day 26
St Ives to Sallys Bottom
Best Bit
Excellent wild camp overlooking Sallys Bottom
Distance
24.1 miles
Total ascent
840 metres
Day 27
Sallys Bottom to Crantock
Best Bit
Finding a campsite so near the trail with an open shop and a really cheap rate. Really nice talk with someone walking the route in the other direction who was so friendly – it made my day
Distance
18.8 miles
Total ascent
1,047 metres
Day 28
Crantock to Treyarnon
Best Bit
Having the confidence to ask at the youth hostel if I could camp there. I’m often scared to get turned down. They didn’t offer camping but let me pitch my tent there anyway and let me use all the facilities. Being brave pays off
Distance
18.9 miles
Total ascent
825 metres
Day 29
Treyarnon to Port Isaac
Best Bit
This was just a brilliant day. Lots of anxiety to overcome throughout and very long but so so rewarding. Getting a wild camp just as the light faded was a case of despair to elation. Oh, and strawberries
Distance
28.2 miles
Total ascent
1,495 metres
Day 30
Port Isaac to St Juliot
Best Bit
Spending time in a cafe after an early start and avoid some of the rain. Getting to a campsite and sheltering from the wind and rain and having a warm shower. After a day like that the little things are amazing
Distance
16.2 miles
Total ascent
1,321 metres
Day 31
St Juliot to Sandymouth Bay
Best Bit
Getting really lucky. After a really tough day of hard climbs and bad weather, finding a campsite, and then getting a lift from the campsite owner to some shops for urgently needed supplies, felt like I’d won the lottery
Distance
18.9 miles
Total ascent
1,634 metres
Day 32
Sandymouth Bay to Hartland Quay
Best Bit
Just glad to end the day at a campsite and not a wild camp. The walking was amazing but I got so wet and the campsite I reached had the drying facilities and decent showers I so desperately needed
Distance
13.4 miles
Total ascent
1,086 metres
Day 33
Hartland Quay to Abbotsham
Best Bit
Meeting a fellow backpacker and able to offer her help. A few miles of easy walking before the undulating cliffs came back. Pitching up at a campsite just before the rain came in
Distance
20.1 miles
Total ascent
1,497 metres
Day 34
Abbotsham to Yelland
Best Bit
Stunning start to the day after a great nights sleep. Managing to get supplies for the first time in a few days. Also meeting Sam who was hiking down from John O’Groats and heading to Lands End
Distance
17.6 miles
Total ascent
242 metres
Day 35
Yelland to Mortehoe
Best Bit
Finally getting through Bideford and Barnstaple and back onto the coastal path proper. Getting into the dry of my tent from the pouring rain and being offered a cup of tea from a local camper van dweller
Distance
25.4 miles
Total ascent
397 metres
Day 36
Mortehoe to Woody Bay
Best Bit
Kind fellow walkers giving me water and others offering suggestions for wild camping spots. Having most of the path to myself and being so high above the sea
Distance
26.1 miles
Total ascent
1,937 metres
Day 37
Woody Bay to Minehead
Best Bit
Thinking back over my journey – almost, slightly, vaguely, proud of what I’d achieved. Thankful I was fit enough and lucky enough to be given the time to indulge myself on this little adventure
Distance
27.2 miles
Total ascent
1,553 metres
1 Comment
Submit a Comment
You must be logged in to post a comment.
So wonderfully expressed and written Ben. Well worth the wait.
Thank you again for taking us along and sharing your “walk”!!
Now back to the West Highland Way!
Tom