I’d been looking at this part of the route a long time before even arriving on the coastal path. Most times, when there is a bit estuary or river, there is a way to get across. Normally that’s a ferry or sometimes it’s a case of walking across at low tide. Unfortunately, to get across the river Taw and the river Torridge, you need to walk right into the town, cross a bridge, and then walk out again.

I’d messed up with the route I’d programmed into my watch and I’d assumed that the ferry at Appledore would be operational. This would have then at least meant I didn’t have to walk all the way into Bideford and then out again. Which means that the miles to Minehead I’ve been showing for all this trip is about 10 miles out so I’ve got further to go than I thought.

The good news is that I’d assumed that I needed to walk into Barnstaple so at least that was factored in. I’ve still got that bit to do but I’m glad I’ve now done the unplanned bit. I’m actually quite pleased I had to go the long way because that is the true coastal path. And I wouldn’t like to have cheated.

In terms of making progress I am, of course, covering the miles of the coastal path, but it can feel frustrating as when I reach Crow Point tomorrow I’ll have been walking for almost 2 days to go about less than a mile. I’ll be able to see Appledore from there and it’ll feel like I could almost touch it.

I think I’m starting to understand why walkers that I’ve met coming the other way, who’ve just done this section, are a little frustrated.

A well tested tent

I had a really good night in camp. Coming off the high from actually getting to the campsite and then meeting the really friendly manager, followed by the snacks I’d got, I had a really nice shower and a gourmet meal of super noodles.

After I’d put the tent up it started raining but was on and off until I went to bed. So I managed to stay dry whilst walking to the shower block. I’ve only got one set of dry clothes – my pyjamas and down jacket – and it’s important to keep these dry. I’ve met people on the trail this time who’ve had items like sleeping bags getting wet and I do feel very sorry for them. It can make the trip miserable.

It was another night of heavy rain but luckily no storm this time. The rain though was continuous for most of the night. I have to say, I’ve been really pleased with how my tent has held up for the trip. Normally I’m on the look out for better kit, it’s apparently an affliction many backpackers have, but I can honestly say that I’ve grown really attached to this tent and I think it’s going to stay.

I woke up around 6am and there was some condensation which was causing water to drip onto my quilt so I decided to pack the items I needed dry away, and then wait out the weather. The only food I had left was a Mars bar so I had that for breakfast while I waited.

All seems familiar

I’m really not sure if it’s the time of day and that tricks me or it is the actual landscape. But as I started walking today everything seemed so familiar. It really reminded me of the first few miles I walked just after leaving the youth hostel in Treyarnon Bay. The way the land was quite low and the views out to sea just seemed the same. It’s so strange as I’m not sure how many days ago that was but it feels like weeks.

I impressed myself again at this moment. As I was walking I was getting a little discomfort from the toes on my left foot. Ben of the past would have just carried on walking and put up with the little bit of pain. Vowing to look later. Not wanting to stop and it often feels, when stopping too often, that not enough progress is being made. But this is totally counter productive so I stopped, took off my boot and sock, and addressed the issue. Which literally consisted of clipping a little bit of toenail. I was quite shocked that in the past I would have let that progress to something quite nasty and debilitating.

I started to see more and more people soon after. First a group of runners. One lady in the group shouting to me that I was on the final stretch now. And then a bit later on family’s out on walks. This must mean that I was approaching civilisation. It got me thinking about how I’d not really seen anyone on the path after Clovelly yesterday. I think it’d been about 4 hours at one point without seeing a sole.

Martin, who I’d met at the previous campsite had mentioned this. He’d said that if you fell, and there are some tricky bits, no one would find you for days as it seems so remote and quiet. I hadn’t expected that at this stage. It’d all been quite remote since Bude.

Stomach calling the shots

I was now approaching Westward Ho! And yes, the exclamation mark is part of the name. I wonder how many places do that. I was now seeing more people and the usual path etiquette of saying hello to everyone was soon gone. This was a proper seaside resort with hotels and static homes. Not really the place for me but I sensed an opportunity.

I had run out of food and I was hungry and just a few yards off the path was a Tesco Express. I was also tempted to sit at one of the many cafes to have breakfast but it was quite busy now so I decided to just stock up at Tesco and then move on, deciding it was much cheaper that way and I didn’t feel like hanging around the busy area. This of course doesn’t bode well for integrating back to normal life.

At the shop, as I was hungry (never shop when you’re hungry!) I bought too much. I could tell the difference when I put my pack back on, but I didn’t want to run out of food again. Which was quite silly of me really because for today and tomorrow I’ll be near quite built up areas. I met a guy today that said it was common to overbuy when you’d been through a stretch like I had. For me the last time I’d been able to get supplies was back at the coop when I got the lucky lift.

Don’t prejudge

I’d really been dreading this section. Actually, dreading is too strong a word, but I didn’t like the thought of walking 30 miles or so and only getting up the coast by a single mile. I suppose I was worried it’ll all just be roads and busy streets. I’m only half way around that but so far it’s been ok. One major benefit as well is that it’s mainly flat, so I should be able to go at a decent pace. Not like the climbs of other parts of the path.

After Westward Ho! the path takes you the long way to Appledore round the sand dunes as grasslands of Northam Burrows country park. I thought I’d really hit the jackpot as well because the tide was out so I could then walk along the beach to Appledore avoiding a potential diversion. As we know though, I was yet to discover my slight miscalculation on the route and was about to learn I had an additional 10 miles to walk.

Appledore was really nice with narrow streets and multi coloured houses. I really liked it. There were quite a lot of tourists mulling around but it was like a different world to Westward Ho! I was tempted to stop for an ice-cream here, but I was already carrying a lot of extra weight so decided not to add some extra to my stomach as well.

The first mile out of Appledore isn’t so nice as you have to walk on a road, but you soon turn off and head onto a footpath that then takes you along the river. I stopped to look at some abandoned ships and boats here. I wondered why they’d just been left to rot, was it for a good reason, or was it just nobody’s responsibility to sort them out. I did imagine what their lives would have been like when brand new, serving a purpose, and why they now came here to slowly decay.

That’s not the bridge you’re looking for

As I was walking along next to the river, going towards Bideford, I could see a really high bridge that took the main road over the River Torridge. I just assumed that because this was the first bridge along the river it’d be the one that I would walk over. I did wonder how I’d get up to it because it was very high, but assumed the path would be marked so I wouldn’t have to worry about it. Then, when I walked under it, I decided to check my map.

It was really silly of me to think that would be the route as it was such a main road, and was obviously not accessible from the path, so I suppose I wasn’t totally surprised when I realised I would have to walk all the way into Bideford, where the was a much smaller and lower bridge. But I was a little disappointed. I was also feeling a bit stupid about buying so much before as I was already about to be in another built up place. Oh well, on we go.

Once in Bideford I had to work my way through some big crowds. I could hear something was going on as I approached because there was really loud music and people talking on a PA. There were loads of stalls selling everything from alcohol, to food, to tea towels and candles and the street was full of people. As I got nearer I saw a big screen showing a cart running down a hill while the commentator on the PA shouted about it. Seems I’d stumbled upon a soapbox race. Not that it didn’t look fun, but I did look at bit out of place, so I crossed the bridge and then headed back out towards the sea now on the Tarka trail.

Some don’t even have to peddle

It was good to get onto the Tarka trail. It was originally a railway line so nice and flat and easy to walk on. I was missing the intricacies of other parts of the coastal path but it was nice to just be able to walk without have to exert myself too much. Probably what my legs needed. I decided to enjoy it. I did make sure though to walk right at the side of the path as this is a very popular route for cyclists and some of them do go quite fast. I only get nervous once when about 20 children came from the other direction and were all excited to be out and not really paying attention. They were probably more likely to hit each other than me though.

I did notice some of the bikes were going quite fast but the jockey had no need to pedal, or at least pedal very much. I suppose this is great if you have an injury or are getting on a bit like me, but some of these bike were ridden by young healthy people. Oh no, I’ve just realised I’m judging, very disappointed in myself. And so I should be, I later et a man riding one, his had three wheels, and he was asking about my trip and giving me advice on camping. He said he used to walk a lot but had bad knees. He had been in the military as well but he told me he was glad he’d worn his body out, he said it was better than dying with bits that still worked as it meant you’d not used them enough.

Really, lost again

The Tarka trail took me into Instow where the coastal path follows the beech for a while. I noticed that the tide had still not come in but that didn’t seem to be affecting people’s fun. Lots were now in the pub beer gardens having a drink and a little part of me was jealous that I couldn’t join them. But it looked quite crowded here and it’s a pain trying to find somewhere to put my bag so I continued on. Now back onto the Tarka trail.

This wasn’t right though. I knew the campsite I was planning to use was right on the Tarka trail but it didn’t seem right to be walking all the way along it and away from the coast. I checked my map and indeed I had gone the wrong way and had walked about a mile down the wrong trail. I’d also programmed my watch incorrectly so that didn’t warn me.

The trail would have got me to the campsite, and it was roughly on the coastal path, but I couldn’t stand to miss out so much of the official path so I traced back my steps and found the proper path. I honestly don’t know how I misread the signs but I’ve come to expect that of myself now. I’m glad I corrected it though, I think it would have bothered me.

The coastal path here then starts taking you down the river Taw and towards Barnstaple. I think I’ve been to Barnstaple before as there are shops there and when camping in Woolacombe in the past we’ve driven here. I think. But today I didn’t get that far as the coastal path again converged with the Tarka trail which then took me right to the entrance to my campsite for the night.

Being weak

The campsite was £14 which I thought was a bit steep. But I paid it anyway. I’ve paid as little as £5 on this trip but normally it’s £10, and the facilities are normally very similar. Some newer than others but ultimately you get a field to sleep in, somewhere to shower and use the toilet, and somewhere to wash up. So I dont really understand the variation.

I suppose I really could have wild camped more and that would have been cheaper but I do prefer the security of a campsite. Being able to pitch up straight away and not rush in the morning is a bonus. I do feel though that I’ve taken the easy option. I’m trying to tell myself that I know I can wild camp if I have to, so I have that skill, but if I don’t have to then I won’t. And that’s OK. I’m not sure I’m convinced though.

Just before I pitched up I got talking to a guy called Sam. He was really chatty but he said he spent so much time alone on the trail it was nice to talk to someone. Although we did both agree that we prefer hiking alone. He was just walking from John o’Groats to lands end. So makes my trip look a bit inferior. He’d also yo yo’d the SW coastal path a coupe of times – which I learnt means you walk Minehead to Poole, and then back again. He wasn’t showing off though, he was just really enthusiastic about it. He told me some wild camping stories as well.

One thing I really took on board is this. When I told him I get anxious about finding somewhere and I start to panic as it gets late, he told me that was totally normal. He said from about 7pm he gets really nervous. Even now. It seems it’s just part of the process. So that made me feel a little better about myself. He made me laugh though because he was very unhappy when he found out that the showers here were of the push button variety. So he still likes some comforts.