There are lots of snails and slugs on the path. Especially when it’s raining. I do wonder how many get crushed by walkers boots as people make their way around the coastline. I also got to wondering if this was ok because a bird would then eat it, so nothing was wasted. I wasn’t sure so I tried my best to avoid treading on any of them, if only to prevent having a slug or snail stuck to the bottom of my boot.

The snail on the trail today though was me.

I’d looked at the weather forecast the night before and had considered taking the day off. It was forecast for heavy rain all day and I wondered if there was any point getting everything wet when I could wait a day for the weather to improve, rest my legs a bit, maybe even pop to the local pub for some food, and then be fresh for the next day. Jenny had even told me that it wasn’t that important that I made it back for her birthday – although this could of course be a trap.

As it happened though, and I was actually a bit disappointed because I fancied a day off, the day actually started quite bright with a very light wind, so I packed up all my gear and walked the 2 miles from the campsite back to the coastal path.

This was now officially a bonus day in terms of miles so I was really taking my time. There was a cafe where I joined the path and I treated myself to a hot chocolate – with cream and marshmallows – and a bacon sandwich. I don’t think I started actually walking until after 11am. Later, at 1:30pm I’d only covered 3.5 miles. I was feeling really good about everything though. This really was a bonus day, virtually a gift.

I sometimes have to remind myself why I’m doing this. Which can be difficult because I’m not always quite sure myself. But I think I’m more about the journey than the destination. Jenny is the same, which is maybe why we get on so well. We love a good road trip. Well I think walking is definitely all about the journey but it’s sometimes easy to fall into the trap of thinking about the destination. Yesterday I started thinking about Minehead, because I was getting nearer, and I think that took my focus off what was important to me. It’s something I often do on my treks and I need to stop it.

Forecasts are difficult

I’ve been keeping an eye on the weather forecast for these last few days, just to see what it’s got in store for me, and also to make informed decisions about where to pitch my tent. I try not to get caught out on top of cliffs in high winds anymore. It’s been changing so regularly though that it’s hard to keep up.

Some people are quite mean to the forecasters, claiming they don’t know what they’re doing. It’s as if these people think they could do a better job. I don’t really understand the science, but I do understand it’s really complex and there are so many variables to take into account, and one variable can affect the whole forecast, it becomes very hard to predict. I assume in very changeable weather, like I’ve got at the moment it becomes even harder.

The upshot, people should be nicer to weather forecasters and I don’t know what the weather is going to be. I’ve also realised today that I don’t mind a bit of rain. I really don’t like wind though, I find that quite annoying. My order of preference for weather is as follows – no weather, sunny, raining, snowing, windy. This is subject to change depending on what I encounter later in my trip.

Glad to be making progress

I’m so glad that I decided to keep on walking. If I’d stayed at the tent I’d have been kicking myself. I knew this was going to be a difficult stretch. Marcus at he campsite had recommended another campsite in Stoke which was only about 13 miles up the coast but he said that walkers going in the correct direction were often pretty worn out by the time they got to him and they’d often come from Stoke. In fact, people often split this stretch into two parts which shows how demanding it is.

I’m trying to work out what it’s called when you’re high up on a cliff, then have to climb steeply down into a valley, and then, almost instantly, high to climb steeply up the other side to the top of another cliff. I assume it’s just cliff and valleys but I’m not sure. The thing is, there were a lot of these today. And some of the paths were quite overgrown as well. I didn’t count how many, and it was also impossible to tell how many you had to go, but I think I preferred it that way. I think if I knew I’d be thinking about it rather than just taking one step at a time, which is definitely the best way to tackle something like this. Just slow and steady.

It was raining on and off throughout the first few miles, but because the terrain was causing me to work quite hard, I didn’t bother with my waterproof coat as I would have soaked it with sweat anyway. So I just walked in a t-shirt and let myself get a little damp. It was actually quite refreshing, which is when I decided I didn’t mind rain. I had my hat on and that kept it from my head, which I find annoying, so it all worked rather well.

Content and confident

About 4 miles into the walk I arrived at a really strange installation. It had big radio telescopes and large white domes. I assume it’s some kind of military installation but it did feel like some secretive base – except for the fact it was in full view and easily accessible from the coastal path. I decided it might be searching for alien life and messages from distant planets – perhaps.

I was having a really good time at this stage of the walk. I felt no pressure either. It’s a very remote part of the path, has been for quite some time really, but because of my trip to the coop the day before, I had enough supplies to last me at least two days so I felt quite self sufficient and knew I’d cope if I didn’t see any shops for a while. It felt good. Knowing that if I’d had enough of the walking at any stage I could just stop for the night.

I felt I had time on my hands so I took the time to try some shots with the DSLR camera I’ve been lent, take breaks as required, and just try to enjoy the views. There are drawbacks with very remote parts of the path but these are more than made up for by the scenery. I got the feeling these sections aren’t walked as often as others. I guess due to their remoteness and also because they are quite challenging. Some of the paths are very overgrown.

I often found myself looking out to sea as it was still and totally flat and with the low clouds and light drizzle it made the sea blend into the sky, it made for a really strange affect, like it went on forever. In the sun I imagine this scene would be totally different, but for me today, it was very calm and soothing. It made me feel really optimistic. I even started thinking about other walks I wanted to do – which is generally unheard of during a hike.

A few niggles

As the day drew on, and the climbs persistent, I did start to get a few pains in my right knee. I think it’s more the down hill sections that activate it although it then doesn’t seem to start hurting until I walk on the level for a bit. I did ponder contacting Emma who I’ve seen before as she’s a very good physio. I thought maybe she could send me some exercises that I wouldn’t do. I’m sure it’ll be fine.

The other minor issue is that I’m running a little low on battery power. I think I’ve got enough for about 2 more days but I’m hoping that I’ll be able to charge my battery banks at the campsite. I was so happy at one point that I wanted to listen to some music but decided that I should be sensible with power so opted to just whistle to myself. I don’t think I’d have been popular if I’d had a companion at this point.

Slowly getting wetter

I was really enjoying the walking and I was now at a section where the path stayed high for a while so I was able to get some speed up. The weather though was gradually getting worse and I could feel my boots getting heavier with water and my socks were wet through.

I decided to put on my waterproof coat now because I was getting cold. I think because the walking had become easier I wasn’t generating as much heat, and because the rain was now really coming down it was making me much colder.

Now really it was just a case of getting to Hartland Quay and then going inland to a campsite. I was quite keen to get set up and have a shower to warm myself up. I’m sure if I’d been wild camping I’d have been ok but I was looking forward to a campsite.

And all was calm

The trudge inland was a bit boring and I was slightly jealous of a couple I’d met earlier who I’d seen pitching up near the path. I’d spoken to them earlier and one of them had told me they’d been trying to cover 25 to 30 miles a day. He said he’d been getting some moaning from his partner about it. I’m not sure they have the makings of a long term relationship but who am I to comment.

Once at the campsite I was shown a room that had tea and coffee and a place for drying clothes so that was a really nice touch and very much needed at that point. It also had somewhere I could charge up my battery banks – which is a great weight off my mind.

I was so glad I’d got out on the trail today and got some miles under my belt. It was a challenge at the end though. But generally, a positive day, and I felt good about myself.

And really, this part of the coastline is amazing. So untouched and remote. I will definitely return.

Oh, I nearly forgot to mention. I’ve got less than 100 miles to go now and I’ve left Cornwall and have hit North Devon.