Well a bit of it has fallen – into the sea. The whole coast from Newquay to where I am now looks like it’s suffering from coastal erosion in one way or another. I guess it all depends what rock the cliffs are made of and that some are more susceptible to it than others. I think that’s how strange rocks formations and caves are formed. The weaker rock is eroded away and the stronger rock remains. Please note though, I’m not a geologist and actually have made that up. Seems plausible to me though. Some people think the world is flat or we didn’t go to the moon so best not believe everything you read on the internet.

There was one particular section, just after I was leaving Newquay that looked quite bad. Originally there had been some stairs down to a beach and they were closed and I did learn later in my walk that part of a hotel was affected – affected meaning falling into the sea. A lot of building work was being carried out across the road from this fall and I did wonder if they knew if they were building on more substantial foundations or these buildings too would also become, affected.

I also noticed around this area that some locals were campaigning to stop the coastline being concreted over. Based on what I was seeing in this area Mother Nature was dealing with that for them.

Super positivity

First things first, I slept really well. The wild camps had been great and given me a real high, but each pitch had been a bit too sloped and I’d spent most of the night having to push all my bedding back up the slope. I was now on a flat pitch and I responded by sleeping well. I think that was the difference anyway. So when I woke up, and it was pouring with rain, I didn’t mind. I actually quite liked it, at least I did after confirming all was secure and nothing was getting wet. It’s not unlike me to do something daft and leave my hat or boots outside the tent.

I did a quick check on the weather and it suggested that the rain would ease off at around 8am so I decided to stay in the tent until it stopped. I wasn’t sure how the rest of the day would be as the weather app was being a little vague but I thought it would be a good test for how I’m managing my kit this time. I was excited to see if this method would make it easier to keep things dry. Or more importantly, to keep the things dry that need to stay dry.

As promised, the rain stopped. I can’t remember the exact time but it must have been around 8am because by 9am I was all packed up, resupplied with water, and headed back to the coastal path at the point I’d left it the day before. I’d actually put my waterproof coat on but it soon became very obvious that this wouldn’t be needed for long. The day was already warming up.

As I headed to the path I felt so happy. I guess it was just the good nights sleep I’d had but I also think, and don’t laugh, I was really excited about how I’d packed my rucksack. In the past I’ve had one large dry bag liner that most things go in, and then anything wet just goes in above that. But, as I’ve never wanted to get the rucksack itself wet I’ve also ended up putting the wet items (for example my tent fly sheet) in dry bags. On top of that, if it rained, I’d also put a rain cover over my rucksack. I’ve been told a rain cover for a rucksack is a bit like putting on a shower cap. It’ll keep it dry for a bit but as there’s a bit hole in it where the straps are, in any reasonable rain the rucksack will get wet – hence the need for a liner. Also rucksack covers can become like kites in the wind which can be a bit dangerous on cliff tops. Oh dear, this is so boring, but I can’t stop thinking about it! So now I only put things that have to stay dry in dry bags (or zip lock freezer bags) and everything else can just get wet. And I don’t have to use a rucksack cover. Now as well, I can find things. I know what dry bag they’re in and can go straight to it. With my old system I was always trying to find things and it was really annoying. I really think this might just work.

What a great start to the day

The weather had improved and I was heading for the low tide bridge at Crantock. On the way I met a couple who were debating whether to follow the coastal path that I’d just joined or to go on the path to the village that I’d just arrived on. I warned them that my path was quite overgrown but they were pointing to a sign about dangerous cliffs in the direction of the coastal path. When I said that was the way I was going to go the man said the sign quite clearly said it was dangerous. I didn’t disagree and said I’d risk it. It’s funny though because the sign did not clearly say that. It said, stick to the path because the cliffs are dangerous. I was very happy not to correct him.

As I arrived at Crantock beach I saw that the low tide bridge was well above the water level. I was a bit disappointed that I wouldn’t get to use a ferry but walking over a bridge was simpler and free so I accepted that this was a good thing. Before making my way over though I was intercepted by someone raising money for the RNLI. He was such a nice man and we talked about the coastal path. He said he was doing it in sections with his wife. I know I shouldn’t have, because I currently don’t have a job, but I decided to donate. I told him it’d have to be quick and I’d be unhappy if I couldn’t get over the bridge. He told me if I couldn’t he’d drive me round in his truck. I’m not sure he meant it but it was appreciated.

That’s a burger

The bridge is a bit sneaky. After you cross, it steers you up some steep stairs that come out in a cafe – who I think operate the bridge and ferry service. I’d not eaten anything though so thought I’d stop for a breakfast cob. There was also 5g at full bars so this seemed the ideal opportunity to update my blog.

I hate being one of those people who take pictures of their food. However, I am one of those people and took and picture and sent it to Jenny. She said it looked like a burger. I’ve never had so much green stuff in a bacon cob. It was very nice though.

The high point though, as I got up to leave and returned my plate, the man in the cafe said “onwards” really theatrically. It really made me smile.

It drags

So now I was in Newquay, I think. It wasn’t clear if you should go round the various headlands to actually follow the coastal path, but I was feeling good so decided to make the extra effort. My watch was unhappy with this decision so it clearly thought I was going the wrong way but this was a devil may care version of Ben so I was going freestyle.

I enjoyed the headlands but, I’m really sorry to say, I found Newquay did go on a bit. I’m estimating, but I think it took me about 3 hours, and I didn’t really stop much – I think once just as I was getting out because I saw a Tesco Express and needed some sandwiches. Newquay did feel like a significant milestone, I think all the big places are, but I was quite pleased to get it over with. I didn’t hate it but it just goes on a bit.

One thing I always find amazing about these walks is the contrast between the town, cities and then the wildness and remoteness of all the other parts of the path. You literally walk a mile out of a town and you’re remote again. I’ve wild camped so near to big settlements and not seen anyone. It’s like people are stuck there.

I did enjoy watching the surfers on Fistral Beach and seeing all the surfers and tourists milling around, but it was not something I wanted to be part of. I also like looking at all the camper vans that they use – generally though, these are not tidy. The surfer life is a scruffy life.

Whilst in Newquay I was looking out for the famous seagull attack of 2006 when Toby had a sausage roll stolen from him by a seagull. I remember him sat in his pushchair when the attack occurred. There was a lot of crying, but I think that was mainly due to the lack of a sausage roll to eat.

Released back into the wild

Every time I thought Newquay was over I’d turn a corner and there was more. It feels like it’s got several town centres. I was a bit confused as to which one was the main one. Then I realised that I didn’t care.

Eventually I got out. First I got to Porth beach, which is much quieter but I think still joined to Newquay, and after this I saw all the cliff collapses caused by coastal erosion.

And just like that, I was back in the countryside and back to beautiful scenery. I liked looking back along the coast at Newquay, and after some time I could even see some of the coastline I’d walked the previous day. It’s not fast travelling purely on the coastal path.

There were plenty of walkers on the path now but it wasn’t busy. So many pretty bays and breathtaking rock formations. I was walking this section for quite a few hours and covered around 10 miles which has brought me to Treyarnon. I know I always say this but I would absolutely recommend this walk. Except for the slight nagging in my head about running out of water and where to camp, I really enjoyed it.

The route consisted of many surfing beaches, some quieter than others, scenic coves, and wide open cliff tops.

Near the start of this, I was taking a break for lunch and playing around with the camera Martin lent me, when a guy started talking to me. He’d spotted me the day before in a cafe and then seen me later on but hadn’t managed to talk to me. He’s actually been walking the whole coastal path from Poole – where he is from – and realised I was doing the same. I did feel the poor relation because I’d had to split it into two whereas he’s doing it all in one. Other than that our stories were similar. It was great to talk to him. He was raising money for charity so I was very impressed.

I obviously had my usual paranoia after our conversation, had I said something stupid, was I rude, did I not listen enough, and so on. But I’m glad he took the time to stop to talk to me.

Just after meeting Luke I walked round the most amazing cove. But then shortly after, some more. The rock formations I found fascinating. I tried to take some good photographs but they never look as good as the real thing. One formation in Parkhead particularly amazed me as it’d been separated from the mainline in a perfect straight line.

So, what’s happening

I had set my mind on wild camping tonight. I was low on water but other than that I was all set. A lot of the path from Newquay consisted of wide open fields and the path has multiple routes. The official coastal path is now slightly in from the cliff edge but there were multiple options to take a slightly different path and find a decent camping spot. In fact I was a little worried sometimes that I wasn’t following the path correctly.

So, I had a plan, walk until I could find some water, and then find somewhere to camp. The first place I came that had water was the YHA so I was brave and went in and asked for some. Then I got braver, (what’s the worse thing that could happen). I asked if they had any camping available.

The kind lady in the YHA showed me the water taps and said she’d check on camping. The verdict, they don’t do camping except in their own bell tents, but I could camp. They just asked me to donate to the YHA and I was good to go. So, it’s not a wild camp, but I can shower again, and I’ve been sat in a bar writing this post. Rather than being hunched over writing it on my sleep pad. There’s a chance I had a burger, ice cream, and a glass of wine.

Walking the coastal path is a doddle.