I need to be clear, today’s post is not about my sister’s bottom. It’s not about how, when we used to go swimming, her bottom would be the first thing to surface when she was trying to swim under water. No, it’s not about that.

Sally’s bottom is actually the name of the place where I’ve pitched my tent. It’s another wild camp as, again, there wasn’t a convenient camp site. Which is a shame really because I really would like to go to a normal campsite so I can have a decent wash but alas, so far, that is not to be.

Today I’ve had more conversations about wild camping than I’ve ever had on a single day of walking a trail. It might be because I’m now more confident about openly saying what I plan to do but I dont know if it’s that. These conversations, baring one, have really helped me though. One man in particular, who must be local with all his knowledge, was very helpful. He asked where I’d walked from and where I was going to. When I told him I didn’t know the exact destination but had a rough idea of mileage he gave me a couple of options. I could either stop short of Portreath or push through and then head to somewhere called Sally’s bottom. I did actually consider a number of pitches just before Portreath, and a couple did look really good, but then I noticed there were ponies in the field and, although I’m not scared of them, I didn’t fancy them accidentally trampling me to death in the night. If I had died I’m not sure if my Dad would be more upset of my passing or that he didn’t teach me better.

So I pressed on through Portreath, only pausing to fill up with water and internally tut at someone having a really smoky barbecue on the beach, and then back onto the cliff path in search of Sally’s bottom. The pitch isn’t amazing but I didn’t have much choice. I was starting to get concerned that there wouldn’t be anything suitable as the path is mainly surrounded by hedging and heather but I noticed some grass that had been flattened, probably by a previous tent, so decided my walking was complete for the day.

Fuelled up and ready to go

My day started perfectly. I forgot to mention yesterday that I saw an adder when I was walking and then read signs that they live in the vegetation along the side of some of the paths. I’ve never seen an adder before so it was very exciting. Unfortunately I didn’t manage to get a picture. Anyway, why am I saying this. Well, my tent was pitched in such a way that some of the pegs were in this vegetation so I was a tiny bit worried I’d get bitten. More so I kept on forgetting about the adders and took no particular care when reaching into the undergrowth to get the pegs. So, the start of my day went well because I didn’t get bitten.

Other things. Well when I woke up – unfortunately after a really rubbish sleep – I opened the tent door to spectacular views. This is definitely a plus to wild camping. I had panoramic views of the sea and I could also see St Ives. I think I’d camped the perfect distance away. Far enough to not get disturbed but close enough to get into town nice and early in the morning. The next good thing was one of the first buildings I passed was a toilet. I needed the toilet as I don’t do wild camping toilet stuff so this was a welcome sight. Then, I found somewhere I could get some takeaway breakfast and a drink (I was very thirsty) and finally a water fountain. Because my wild camp was so badly planned I let myself run out of water and I hadn’t had any since the night before so finding somewhere to fill up my water supply felt pretty good. More good than you’d expect for just water. It’s the little things that keep you going on the trail.

I then headed out of St Ives.

I was warned

The walk from St Ives to Carbis Bay was really nice. Not an especially easy path but it was fun and I enjoyed how it interacted with the railway line swapping sides a couple of times with bridges. Just as I left St Ives I paused to check what way to go and a man asked me if I was ok. I told him I wasn’t sure which way to go for the coastal path and he pointed me in the right direction. About 5 minutes later I saw a backpacker coming the other way to me and she asked me the way to St Ives. After I told her she moaned about Hayle and asked if St Ives was going to route her right through the town in the same annoying way Hayle did. As I was yet to walk through Hayle I couldn’t accurately answer her question but I said I thought the St Ives section was ok. But for all I knew it would be just as bad to her – maybe she was just fussy. Guess what – Hayle was bad.

The man who’d just given me directions then caught up with me and we walked and talked for a few minutes. Lots of nice people around this part of the world. It was a really nice walk to the bay as well. The stretch of beach looks amazing. Once past there the path does go inland a bit and it’s not so spectacular, but it was a much easier walk so I didn’t really mind. I then found a cafe and treated myself to a drink and some cake.

It was so busy in the cafe. Lots of people were sat inside and the poor serving staff were rushed off their feet. I went in to order but said I’d sit outside to get away from the din. I’m glad I did as I got to eat the best rocky road cake I’ve ever had in peace and quiet. The cake had honeycomb oozing out of it. I don’t think it was very healthy mind. Which reminds me – I need to clean my teeth.

I was beginning to think, if this was what the lady before had been moaning about, then she maybe had very high expectations. Then I continued my journey and had to walk down a main road to Hayle which you have to cross twice due to only having a single footpath.

Hayle wasn’t very nice. Maybe there are nice bits and I didn’t get to see them so I am perhaps being very unfair, but this is not a great part of the coastal path. The big issue really is that it needs to get you around an estuary so the path is forced inland and unfortunately that does mean going through the centre of the town. It really takes a long time, isn’t so attractive, and after it all it doesn’t feel like you’ve travelled very far because St Ives is just a short distance across the estuary. I did get prior warning though. As I write this I know I’m being a little harsh. The walking was easy and my feet did appreciate that. Later in the day though I was talking to a couple who’d walked the whole SW Coastal path in sections over a number of years. When I mentioned Hayle they recalled that they’d missed that bit out.

Harder but infinitely nicer

Hayle has a beach and it’s long. Really long. And really nice. There is a choice here, I now know, and that’s either to walk along the beach or follow the official coastal path through a maze of sand dunes. I’m nothing if not a stickler for the rules so picked the sand dune option.

At first I did find it a little tiresome because it wasn’t always obvious where to go, but by the end I was really enjoying myself. There were also some lovely flowers growing out of the sand.

My boots are quite good at walking in sand so it wasn’t too difficult and I loved how the path wound it’s way away each dune to eventually, after quite a bit of time, appear at the end of the beach and the start of a climb back up onto cliffs.

I met quite a few people on this section, all with a tale to tell about their experience of the coastal path and of Cornwall. One couple told me about how their grandchildren asked them if it’s always windy in Cornwall – yes is the answer, and told me how once section had been made wider to allow for wheelchairs. This particular section I found quite nice after some of the paths that have now overgrown. It was also here I met the man who gave me advice on camping locations.

After the wide bit of path there are some serious climbs and descents to tackle so I don’t think the wheel chairs would be sensible here as I struggled a bit, but I was close now to Portreath and had been walking for 10 hours and was starting to get tired.

I met a panicker

Just before I had to tackle the sand dunes a backpacker appeared from the narrow path I was about to encounter. He was a really nice man but he made me look very calm and in control. He asked me where I was heading to and when I told him the distance his face went serious and he told me there wouldn’t be any camping. I told him that I’d wild camp and he just said I might get caught. Kept on saying he saw spots but people were sometimes walking by and would see him. I said I’d have to risk it, but really now, I don’t mind people spotting me, I just don’t want them to spot me, report me to the police, and then the police come and move me on. So I’m not sure if I met me from 6 months ago and I’ve now changed, or if he was just very nervous. Lovely guy though and I hope he’s doing ok. He’s brave enough to walk the path so must be quite confident in other ways. Although, I’m walking it as well so maybe not!

Off grid

There is no mobile signal at all where I’m camped so I’m going to sleep now and post this tomorrow when I’m near Porthtowen although I think I’ll only see the beach. I’ve already once involuntarily dozed off while writing it so I think I need some rest. Hopefully the post doesn’t make you sleep as well.

I’ve sent Jenny a message on the Satellite communicator to say I’m safe. I’m really glad I bought that. I’d have had to carry on otherwise.

I don’t mind saying, the sound of the sea and wind with all the sounds of wildlife is so soothing but also sometimes a bit scary. I can often hear voices in all the noise. Here’s to a peaceful night.