When I left Cape Cornwall last October it was pouring with rain and wasn’t particularly pleasant. I was really pleased to have just got into the car with the heating and the heated seats switched on. I was really cold and just wanted to get to our hotel, have a decent shower and get something nice to eat and drink.

The thought of getting back onto the coastal path, going back to Cape Cornwall, and continuing the walk seemed like it either would never happen, or would be a long time in my future. If I’m honest, I just didn’t fancy doing it. I thought maybe I’d done enough walking for my lifetime.

Just a few hours before getting in the car I’d seen a backpacker, loaded down with all his gear, walking the other way to me in the pouring rain. I have no idea where he was going to stay as it was also getting quite late. But I clearly remember thinking, I’m glad that’s not me. But then, a few months later I was heading up to Scotland for my hikes up there, and now, just a couple of months further on, I’m sat in a hotel in St Just, writing this post and getting ready to set of tomorrow, back to Cape Cornwall, to get back on the trail and finish the south west coastal path. None of it makes any sense.

It’s become traditional

I quite like walking to the station to start my walks. I know most people think it’s a bit strange because I don’t live very near the station and there are plenty of people who could give me a lift. But I quite like the idea of starting my walks from my front door. It gives me a chance to give my kit a quick test as well, checking everything is comfortable or if there are any tweaks I need to make to my clothing or backpack.

A particularly nice thing happened today as well. I’d only just got to some fields near my house when someone had a quick chat with me, asking me what I was doing. After the initial confusion when I accidentally implied I was walking to Cornwall, he told me about a book he’d read about someone doing the same hike and how they’d found a dog during the walk and ended up keeping it. I must look that one up. He also suggested I write up my adventure for the local paper. I said I doubted anyone would be interested but he seemed to think they would be. Which was very kind of him. He then told me to take my time, offered me his dog for the trip, and sent me on my way.

Time so slow down

Part of the walk to the station involves walking over a motorway bridge and I noticed that all the traffic in one direction was stationary. I felt really lucky to not currently be part of that busy world with too many people crammed into one place. It was a nice moment because I was feeling quite anxious about this hike so it was a good reminder of some of the benefits of breaking away and getting on the trail.

It must have worked because as I neared the station black clouds were forming in the sky and I didn’t mind.

An observation

People chase trains. I noticed it as we pulled into a station somewhere in Cornwall. As the train arrives people start moving to get on but as it’s not stopped yet they all seem to instinctively walk after in. Even if the train is very long, so standing still until it’s stopped would mean there would be a door near them to get on, they still do the same. They chase after it. It’s really odd.

I really enjoyed the Plymouth to Penzance leg of the journey. The previous two trains I’d been on were quite busy, and for the second one I’d had to put my rucksack in the luggage rack so I spent most of that leg worrying about it. So I was pretty happy with the Cornwall stretch because I sat next to my bag, and also had some nice scenery to I look at. I even got to see St Michael’s Mount which I’d missed when I walked this part of the coast due to the mist. I found it strange that every bit of coast I saw today I’d walked as we were on the south coast and I’d done all of that. Made me feel a little bit proud.

The second train of the day did have one positive after it passed through Exeter and towards Exmouth. There is a really good view of the estuary from the tracks and I could clearly see the Starcross ferry that I’d used last year and then much of the walk to Teignmouth. Then, within minutes, I could also see the ferry I’d taken in Teignmouth where I’d met the very nice lady who used it as her daily commute. It was pleasant to relive these moments that my mind has since compressed. This section had taken me several hours to walk and the train wizzed by.

A bus is a novelty

As I said, the final train of the day was a much calmer affair. I had been worried because I only had 8 minutes to make my connection at Plymouth, but this went very smoothly. I broke one of my rules and decided to queue to get off the previous train – I normally don’t see the point of standing in the isle before the train has even stopped – as I didn’t know the station layout and 8 minutes seemed such a short time. As it turned out this was plenty of time and I had about 7 minutes to spare. All that worry for nothing! Once on the train there was plenty of space and I would relax.

Between Par and St Austell I saw the golf course where I met that kind family last year who gave me a lift to my hotel. I was trying to spot if there had been a way over the train lines to get from the golf course to my hotel but I couldn’t tell. I’m very glad I accepted their kind offer. I really wish I’d stayed in touch with them. I was talking so much in their car that I feel that I might not have been grateful enough or that I said something stupid.

This leg of the journey was very slow but I didn’t mind. It stopped at so many small stations – the ones where you have to be in the correct carriage to get off as the train is too long for the platform. Eventually though it trundled into Penzance. From here I had to get a bus to St Just. This turned out pretty simple. Go to the bus station – which is next to the train station – wait for the bus you need, and then get on it.

I didn’t realise it’d been so long since I’ve been on a bus because it really felt like a novelty to me. I think there is a certain amount of fun to the ride in Cornwall because the country lanes are so narrow here and it’s quite remarkable how the driver manages to navigate down them without hitting anything. So maybe that’s why it was such a novelty to me because it felt a little like a fairground ride. So much so that we went past a house where a man was in the front garden. He was looking at the bus and I nearly waved. Like people do when they’re on a boat trip or a steam train ride.

Times are hard

I managed to suppress my desire to wave at strangers for the rest of the bus ride and made it to the hotel from where I’m writing this. I decided to not eat in the restaurant and have just bought some sandwiches and a bottle of cider to have for my tea. Every now and then I remember that I haven’t got a job so need to be a bit more sensible with the pennies. Plus I didn’t really fancy it. I think an early night is a good idea so I can hit the path tomorrow full of energy.

I’m already liking my new rucksack but I’m having to get used to a new way of packing. This pack has a feature where you can open it at the front to reveal all your kit in one go. My last pack was just top loading, which I liked, but I think I’ll like this more. Just will take some getting used to. The biggest difference is that I can’t just use a big pack liner for the whole bag so I need to put my stuff – especially things that need to stay dry – in individual dry bags. I guess we’ll see if it works. Hopefully it’ll keep me more organised.

So, back to Cape Cornwall tomorrow. I think I’m excited. It started to rain as I got here today so it felt a bit like when I left last time. The weather though is generally cooling down at the moment and that is definitely a positive.

I don’t know how far I’ll walk tomorrow. I will get to St Ives I imagine, but whether I get beyond that – well, we’ll just have to see.