Approaching this walk I wasn’t really thinking about the actual journey, about getting from point A to point B and back again. I was thinking more about ticking off a small part of the coastal path that had been a minor inconvenience, a small nemesis. I’d somehow forgotten about how pleasurable and breathtaking walking the coastal path could be. How nice it was to walk beside the sea and along the cliffs and beaches.

I’d also forgotten how undulating the Dorset coast could be. How challenging some of the climbs. But how satisfying it was to complete these sections of the trail.

I’ll let you into a little secret. I’m actually writing this a week after the walk. It’s quite magical though, looking back at the pictures I took, and how amazing the coastline and the sea looks. It makes me feel really lucky to have been able to make the long trip down and then back again. To experience something so spectacular. The Dorset coast really is something quite special.

Jenny would not approve

I didn’t sleep well in camp. This really surprised me because I’d had so little rest in the build up I’d expected to be out for the count. I wasn’t worried about anything either, well nothing immediate anyway, so it really didn’t make sense. I suppose what I was doing was quite new to me, and because of the high riding miles involved in a relatively short space of time, there was a bit of pressure. I didn’t feel any though. Fortunately, despite the lack of rest I was eager to get this part of the coast covered, and didn’t feel any ill effects from a bad nights sleep.

Often when I go to a campsite I’ll wonder what it’d be like if Jenny was with me. I often think I’d like to come back with her at some point in the future. This was a nice campsite and one I’d happily use again but it would not have met one of the crucial requirements that Jenny will often judge a site by. She’s not particularly fussy (she’s with me for a start) but the showers have to be configured with an area in each cubicle where you can put clothes so they don’t get them wet when you’re showering. These didn’t come even close to having that setup and even I found them awkward, and I often live for days on the trail living like a tramp!

It was the strangest configuration. There was a lockable door which lead to a changing area with four shower cubicles, each shielded by a curtain. The problem was that if you locked the door then no one else would be able to use any of the showers, but if you didn’t lock it, there was a risk of someone walking in while you were getting changed for the shower. It really didn’t work. I’m not sure what they were thinking when they put this together. So, nice campsite, but needs a bit of a rethink.

I did everything right

It was a fairly short ride to get to the missing section. I really love it in these remote areas with their really narrow winding roads. Some of the turns were actually quite tight. I think, before I’d got used to the size of my current motorbike, there would have been quite a high risk that I’d have dropped it on some of the bends. Luckily no such issue arose which was a relief as I’m not the strongest person and lifting up my bike is quite difficult.

At one stage two ladies on horses were heading towards me so I decided to stop and switch my engine off while I waited for them to pass. It was a good move because they briefly stopped to talk to me. The magic of the path was already starting, where people will pluck up conversations with total strangers and everyone is so nice and genuinely interested in what you’re doing.

Finally, at Kimmeridge Bay I parked up and set about getting ready for the hike ahead. I had to get out of my motorcycle clothing and into my walking gear and everything went to plan. Most remarkably I’d remembered everything I needed. This was the part of the trip I was most worried about because I wanted to get all my kit locked up and I was worried that the protective clothes I use for riding wouldn’t fit in the panniers on my bike as some of it can be quite bulky. Luckily I’d had the foresight to bring down a small bike lock so I could lock my crash helmet to some of the bars on my bike. It’s a nice little technique that I didn’t come up with myself but really useful if your panniers are full with other items like camping equipment. Not totally thief proof of course but would deter the casual idiot from doing something mean, and of course, this was Kimmeridge Bay so I felt quite safe. Only nice people here.

What a load of waffle

If you’ve got this far I absolutely owe you an apology. I’ve been going on and on about the journey down, my kit, campsite showers and crash helmets. I wanted to get the details down but they’re not very interesting. But I’ve written it all now and I don’t want to waste my effort so it’s staying in. 

The words in this post haven’t been coming easily. I’ve been really struggling with writing it at all. When I look at my pictures from this day I’m filled with warmth and I’m eager to get it all recorded, but then the words just don’t come. I don’t know why this is. I’m not saying I always find it easy but this one is a slog. I imagine the read is a bit of a slog as well. I can only put it down to cramming too much into a few days between shifts and I’m exhausted. Or maybe I’m just not very good at it, because the day itself was superb and I’m so glad I did it.

Memories from the past

It was great to be back on the path and especially back on the coast. Mother Nature had again been especially kind to me and the sea shone so blue. It felt really tropical and inviting. I initially had far too many clothes on and had to shed a few layers almost immediately when I realised it was going to be a warm day.

I’d obviously been to Kimmeridge Bay before and had spent some time here waiting for the taxi to take me around the danger area. I had expected it to be really busy as it was half term and also because this path is only open at certain times, but it was very quiet. Only a few cars were parked up and most of the people were staying local and not tackling the coastal path. I’m definitely not complaining. I’d envisaged a mad rush with everyone trying to complete this section while it was open but I was very far from the mark. It was nice to be back here and I was delighted to see the ranges open and excited to get the section ticked off.

Straight out of the Bay I came to an oil well. Now I really wasn’t expecting that. I thought it must be some kind of museum piece or something to do with the military ranges. But no, it was a working oil well that still produced oil. It was one of those nodding donkey wells that I often see on the news but I’d never seen one in the UK. I’m sure a field of these wouldn’t look so good but I was fascinated by how it worked and I find they add something to the landscape. On my return later in the day an oil tanker was parked up in the pound that enclosed the well which confirmed this was not just for show, it was a live site.

Around a mile later I got my first climb of the day. Fairly steep but also quite tame compared with what was to come and, of course, with each climb comes another set of fabulous views. For much of this section I found my gaze drawn out towards Portland. It brought back memories from last year where it’d taken me most of a day to get around the Isle – which frustratingly brings you back to where you started. It had been such a hot day and very hard work and had culminated in my first wild camp. A very testing day both physically and mentally but one I look back on with a sense of pride and achievement. I enjoyed looking at the Isle with those memories from the comfort of this easier day.

Travelling light

I can’t recommend the route between Kimmeridge Bay and Lulworth Cove enough. It’s definitely not for the faint hearted as it does involve some serious climbs but every single inch is a pleasure to walk. The weather was so nice that I had perfect views and, of course, I took so many photographs. I’m so lucky that I’m able to do these walks, just alone with my thoughts, complimented by amazing scenery. I’d forgotten how rugged the coast line is here and how spectacular it appears. I honestly don’t understand why it’s not full of people but I won’t complain. I occasionally saw and talked to other walkers but there weren’t many. Just enough to share the experience with but also having acres of space to enjoy the landscape, contemplate life, and blow some of the cobwebs in my head away. The nature of the terrain got the heart going as well, I was actually working quite hard, quite relieved to not be carrying my full pack. I did wonder how I’d managed to carry all my kit on these climbs when I covered the Dorset Coast last year – I guess I was younger then!

Mixing up the route

One thing I like about walking the coastal path is that it’s quite easy to navigate. For the trip out I just had to keep the sea to my left and surely I couldn’t go wrong. Except I did go wrong. It was a bit of a blessing really because it meant that my route to Lulworth Cove was different to my walk back. Around 4 miles into the walk the path comes down to a small cove with a beach and then climbs sharply up to cliff tops. After that the path undulates up and down, hugging the coast, and then eventually stays up high for a couple of miles as you head towards the cove. However, whilst up high I noticed that I’d gone slightly inland and I could see to my left that there was lower land that was nearer the sea. I wondered if I’d gone wrong.

Even though the ranges are open at certain times you are restricted as to where you can walk. You have to stick to the paths for safety reasons so I figured this was just the official path and the lower land to my left was not open to the public. I don’t like going the wrong way, it’s something that bothers me quite a lot. I can’t just accept that I was roughly on the path so it all counts anyway. No, I feel like if I’m not on the actual path then I technically haven’t walked it. This silly mindset has often caused me quite a lot of backtracking in the past. But good news in this case, because if I have gone wrong, it doesn’t matter. This time I have to walk back anyway so hopefully second time lucky.

My error was confirmed as I got near to Lulworth Cove. I could see the coastal path proper coming in from my left as I started to descend into the cove. I had no idea where I’d gone wrong as I was quite sure I’d followed the route correctly, but as I wasn’t using a map and just relying on the path and signs there was every chance I’d missed a turn. I tend to day dream and look out at the views a lot as well so often I’m not paying close attention to the route. I decided I would not worry but on my return just follow the converging path when I walked back. I can’t imagine how I would have felt if I’d been walking this last year, just one way, with all my gear, and had made the same mistake.

Not good value but worth it

At this point I found everyone. I think most people park up in the large carpark at the cove and then walk towards Durdle Door. As I walked down to the cove from the high path I looked across to see hundreds of people on the path that climbs out of the cove and figured that was where they were heading. I remember this part being very busy when I walked it last year. Although I’m not surprised, Durdle Door is pretty spectacular.

I made my way into the cove and decided to meticulously follow the coastal path around Lulworth. When I was dropped off in the taxi last year I just walked straight from the carpark and up the hill towards Durdle Door. The path leads right down to the beach and then turns right, up a hill and along the coast for a few hundred yards before getting to the carpark. I hadn’t really missed too much last time but it’s a nice little place although quite busy.

Whilst making my way around this small bit of coastal path I noticed there were boat trips on offer, leaving from the beach. Often I’d be too embarrassed to get myself on one of these trips, especially as I was on my own, but before I knew what I was doing I’d asked about the next available trip. Literally two minutes later I was being fitted with a life jacket and I was heading for the boat.

What a fun trip. I guess I looked a bit odd being on my own but I’m so glad I plucked up the courage to go on. I wasn’t scared of the boat trip in any way but being on my own and just spontaneously doing something like that isn’t really me. Well it didn’t used to be anyway. The boat took me along the coast and then floated around Durdle Door. I got an amazing view of this unusual rock feature and I didn’t have to walk. I felt I owed it to Tom as well to take another look as I’d not really been taking it in last year when I walked past. I’m really glad I took the trip even if it was a bit expensive. It gave me a little high.

Coast path proper

The boat trip was over much too quickly but I had to get back now anyway. I was due in Bristol to see my friend Steve and I didn’t really want to keep him waiting too long. Plus I needed to work out how I’d gone wrong on the way and I wanted to properly follow the coastal path on the way back to Kimmeridge Bay.

It wasn’t difficult to find the path on my return journey. I was also helped by a man walking the other way who gave me his printed map. He was in his 80s but he didn’t look very old to me. If I’m still walking these paths in my 80s I will be surprised. A lot of things will have gone right for that to happen. But I can hope.

Now, I knew I’d gone wrong on my approach to Lulworth but I didn’t realise how wrong. The actual path descends steeply down to the part of the cove opposite Lulworth and the closely follows the coast line. It’s a lovely part of the walk and feels very untouched. I could look up to the higher path that I’d come in on and I felt really glad that I’d now followed the correct route. Well I’m glad I’d done both routes. And now I didn’t feel I’d missed out. I preferred it down here as I was closer to the sea. I did wonder though how I’d managed to miss it before.

The only draw back of following this route was eventually I had to climb back up, and that was a very steep climb. I met a couple coming down and one of them was struggling a bit. Her partner was telling her the path was flat once they got to the bottom of the slope, which was true, but I didn’t have the heart to tell them that there was an equivalent climb once they got to Lulworth. At the top of the climb, once I joined back with the path I’d walked on before, I could see how I’d make the mistake. There were no signs from the path to indicate that you needed to come off the main high path and descend. It was just a gap in the fence with a sign after you’d already turned off. I figured it was an easy mistake to make and one I’d have definitely made last year. So maybe I got lucky that this part had been closed because I wouldn’t have liked to have walked it twice with my backpacking kit.

Time to go

I told Steve that I thought I’d be with him for about 7pm. This information was probably out of date a few minutes after I told him. Best case really was that I’d be back at my bike for about 5:30pm and with over 2 hours to get to Bristol, I was going to be late. I hadn’t seen Steve or Cate for ages so I didn’t really want to be so late but I was now paying the price of walking the path correctly (the actual coastal path is definitely a more challenging walk) and treating myself to the boat ride. When I finally confessed to Steve that I was going to be later than planned he said it was fine. That put my mind at rest.

I’ve known Steve since we met at University aged 18. He’s always seemed to have everything under control. I always look at Steve and see how I should have turned out. Successful at work, long term marriage, good at DIY, a good father. I often feel embarrassed when we meet up about how differently my life turned out. This time was no different. In fact it was even worse as I was about to leave my job and become unemployed. He and Cate are always very kind to me though. I was even his best man and I don’t think I ever told him what an honour that was. I’m sure he could have found someone more suitable so the fact he picked me, well, it was something very special.

I still stopped to take lots of pictures for the last few miles. The colour of the sea constantly catching my eye. It was blue, obviously, but the different shades of blue made me feel like decorating my bedroom. If I could recreate those colours I think that would be a peaceful place.

I got back to my bike around 5:30pm as expected and quickly tried to get everything sorted out. My Mum then called while I was half undressed in the middle of the car park to check I was ok – which was appreciated. Then I hit the road, unfortunately getting to Bristol for about 8:30pm. Steve was ok with that though and let me shower before we headed out to dinner. Thanks Steve.

It was a busy day. I slept well that night!

All change

I’ve written this post one week after the walk. Last night was my final shift for Rolls Royce so I no longer have a job. It was a really good paying job as well but I need a change, however, when I run out of money, I may decide it’s all a massive mistake. But there’s only so long you can do something just for the money.

I’m excited but sad to leave. Everyone has been so kind to me. I don’t think I deserve that as I talk far too much and ramble on, but I’ve been given a lovely send off with so many nice words. I will definitely miss the people I worked with.

To take my mind off it me and Jenny are heading down to Cornwall for a few days camping. We’re going to a campsite I used last year when walking the coastal path and I’m really looking forward to it. I might even try a bit of paddle boarding. Jenny say’s she’ll watch, she’s not a fan of the water. Then, on the 27th of June I’ll be getting the train down to Penzance to finish the SW coastal path, again with all my camping gear, with an open ended finish date. 

After that – well I suppose I’d better find some work.