If I’ve got the physics correct, there is a chance I’ve got them wrong, as we go faster, time slows down. This means the astronauts on the international space station are aging slightly slower than the rest of us down here on earth. There’s not a lot in it, I think we’re talking fractions of a second, but it is slower.

So, why is it then that when I do a thru-hike, where my pace is definitely not fast, time slows down for me. I think back to leaving home in Ratby on Thursday the 18th, just a week and a half ago, and it feels like months have passed. I feel like I’ve been walking for a long time and have been away from home for ages. It’s been fun as well. Not like I’ve been away for a terrible work assignment where you just want it to end and to get home. This has, generally, been my happy place.

Flat is better

I’m so grateful to the lady that I met who pointed out the good wild camping spot. It was definitely the right moment to stop for the day. My body was ready. That coupled with the rain then coming in made the timing and location pretty perfect. I discovered as I started walking for my final day that there weren’t any significantly better spots to stop for quite a few miles.

The only issue, and this was mainly my fault for the haste in which I put up my tent, was that I was on a slope. It’s quite difficult, even in campsites, to find the perfect level pitch and when wild camping it can be even trickier, but this slope was quite pronounced. Normally with a slope I try to make it so the slope is at least length ways, so my head is up hill, but in this case it was sideways. I therefore spent the whole night sliding into the side of my tent and slipping to the side of my sleep pad. So it wasn’t the best night sleep I’d had of the trip. I wasn’t unhappy though. I was still feeling pretty good about the location and timings, so I was happy.

It had been another really cold night in camp. After walking, your body does cool down quite quickly but I have noticed as the trip has gone on the nights have been getting colder. Planning what to take and wear on a trip at this time of year is always quite difficult because you don’t know what to expect. It could constantly rain, snow, or, as luck would have it, be mainly sunny. I felt satisfied that I was prepared for this cold weather at night and was pleased I had the equipment to cope with it. There’s nothing worse than lugging around a load of equipment that you don’t need.

Despite the slope, I keep looking back on this final pitch with fond memories. It was a really good last night on the trail. I felt really comfortable, in terms of not being afraid, like it was ok for me to be there. I went outside at around 10pm though and it was so dark. I was in a forest but couldn’t see any trees. I think there’s a phrase about that.

Don’t wish it away

Awake, back into my hiking clothes, tent put away, I was ready to walk the last 16 miles to the end of the Great Glen Way and into Inverness. At this stage of a hike I always feel that I’m ready for it to end. I find, if I don’t stop myself, that I’m thinking too much about the end point. The chance to finally rest my feet, put clean clothes on, have a shower. All the things that now seem like a luxury. I often feel at this point that if I had another few days I wouldn’t be able to cope. But I think that’s just because I am so near to the finish line and all those comfortable things. I think, hope, that if I had another few days to go I’d still be in the hiking mindset and would be quite happy to carry on.

I had perused the map for the last day just before I’d walked into Drumnadrochit the previous day. This was when I was considering where I was going to try and find somewhere to camp for the night. I hadn’t particularly liked the look of this last section into Inverness. At first appearance it seemed that the route mainly followed a road and would be a bit of a slog. I’m not a big fan of walking on roads. I had misread this though. Quite significantly really.

Initially the path climbed through the forest. It was a big climb to start the day but I was fresh (despite what my watch told me about the quality of my sleep) and I knew this would be a tough start but would then level out. It was quite misty but there were occasional glimpses of Loch Ness through the trees and as I climbed higher I could see that it was mainly covered in a layer of fog. I’d seen the loch the day before though so I didn’t mind seeing it in a different guise. It was just as scenic, just in a different way.

My first happy birthday

A couple of hours into the hike I caught up with a lady from Alaska. She’d been staying in back packing hotels and was telling me about her journey so far. There was a moment when she asked me where I’d walked from and I said Glasgow. In my head I suddenly went, “I’ve walked from Glasgow – wow”. I was actually impressed with myself. I felt a little bit proud.

She had done the same walk as me and it felt like a nice connection. Lots of people walk the West Highland Way but not so many are interested in tagging on the Great Glenn Way. I’ve seen so few people doing this that it’s rare and nice to bump into them and share our stories. She’d had some terrible weather at the start of the walk so I think I’d got lucky with my timing. She said all the drying rooms at the hotels had been full and there was no space to dry her clothes. I think she must have been very happy the weather turned for the better, although maybe not as deterred as I was when it started raining again. I think the current weather for her was still pretty good.

I told her I was meeting Jenny and that it was my birthday and she wished me a happy birthday. So my first inperson happy birthday was from someone I’d never met before and who was from 1000s of miles away. I quite liked that. For the record, my first text message happy birthday was from Jenny, but the second was from Tom, also from 1000s of miles away. My friend pool is small but geographically quite spread out!

A happy time

After the forest the route turns away from the loch and towards Inverness. It stays up high and, looking back, there are really nice views of the mountains. There is some road walking as I suspected but only for a few miles and these were actually quite pleasant. The wind had picked up and there was some rain but I was warm and happy. My hat and gloves keeping the worst of the weather at bay and I felt comfortable.

I could see the mileage remaining ticking down but wasn’t desperate for it to get to zero. I was quite happy with my steady progress and the walking was fun.

Jenny had now caught her flight and was on her way up to meet me so I was very much looking forward to that but I was determined to not ruin the walk just thinking about the end.

It’s funny, at this stage in all my walks, I’m often thinking that I wouldn’t do another one. That yes, it’s a great experience, but it’s also quite hard work. I see people heading in the other direction and feel glad I’m not them. I just think it’ll be nice to change these clothes that I’ve been wearing for 10 days and the thought of it being any longer seems unbearable. But I think there must be something wrong with me, because I know for a fact this doesn’t last long. I know this because when Jenny and I went out for dinner in the evening to celebrate my birthday and completion of the walk, I saw a map on the wall of the restaurant of the Inner Hebrides and remembered there was a hike that covers those islands and I decided I’d do that one day.

Someone has hidden the finish

It’s quite amazing how long the trail stays out of built up areas as it heads to Inverness. After the high road from which you can see the mountains it enters into woodland, and some nice trails, and then descends into the city. I think only about the last 3 miles are in the city and most of them are really nice. There is a bit where you are walking through a housing estate but it soon comes to the Caledonian Canal, then through a park, and finally onto the River Ness.

I did manage to go the wrong way just before getting to the river but luckily I realised before I’d gone too far off course. I maybe had to walk an extra half mile for my mistake but that wasn’t too bad. I blamed the signage but I think it was probably my fault, maybe I’d not been drinking enough water. It’s easy to forget sometimes.

Unbelievably my left leg started to hurt at this point. No idea on anatomy but it was the muscle above my knee. I only had 2 miles left to go so I was just grateful that I was so near the end. Maybe my leg sensed the end of this adventure was approaching and wanted to remind me of its good work. Honestly leg, ok legs, I’m very grateful. Feet, yes you’ve done a good job as well.

After walking beside the river for maybe a mile the path heads towards the castle. I did get a little confused here as I knew the end of the trail was near but couldn’t see anything to signify this. The signs got a little contradictory and I couldn’t work out if they were the ones pointing back to Fort William or the ones for Inverness. The castle was cordoned off because it was having some work done so I thought maybe the finish was officially there.

I was close to giving up, figuring I’d pretty much walked it, and what’s a plaque between friends. I must have something wrong with my eyesight though because it was just next to where I was standing. I’m really glad I saw it, because even though I say I wouldn’t have minded seeing the official end, I think I probably would have.

Not quite back to normal

I’m really glad I did both these walks, and so glad the elements allowed me to climb Ben Nevis. I’m so lucky my body let me do it as well. I’m truly grateful. I would absolutely recommend all the trails and I think the Great Glen Way is better than some people think. I know I can get a bit grumpy on these walks but I think that’s just the nature of how I do them and how my mind works. I hope it hasn’t been too negative.

To avoid coming back to earth with a big bump, myself and Jenny are on a train now heading to Aberdeen from where we’ll get the overnight ferry to Lerwick. I hope that it takes the edge off my return from the wild. I always find adapting to life after these trips both elating but also terrifying.