It appears that I wasn’t properly listening to the man I met at the bottom of the locks on the Caledonian Canal yesterday. He was telling me about part of the route that diverts on the other side of a loch and was telling me it was quite a pain and that it was closed for the whole year. Apparently there is a museum that you can no longer get to due to this diversion.

What makes this worse is that I already knew about the diversion and had programmed it into my watch. I suppose that excuses me that when my watch was telling me to go on the west side of Loch Lochy it didn’t surprise me as I knew I’d already planned for the diversion. The thing I understand though was this man had told me walking the west was far inferior to the east, but what I was experiencing was perfect. I could see the Loch and I could also see the mountains. Surely this is the preferable route.

I got further confused when a few miles short of Lagan Locks there actually was a diversion due to a new energy plan being built. So a diversion on a diversion. This was odd. But then the penny dropped.

As I approached Lagan Locks (there is only one lock so why the plural) the true horror of the real diversion was realised. The diversion the gentleman had been talking about, and which I already knew about, was around Loch Oich. And, despite the signs implying it was only a minor inconvenience, it was big. Lots of climbing and descending, walking far away from the loch and then doubling back, some road walking. It wasn’t unpleasant but I can definitely see why the normal route is preferable. It also made me feel a bit stupid. I need to listen more.

Below zero

The weather forecast for the night was showing -3C with the potential of a light snow shower. I don’t think I got the snow, well there was no sign of it in the morning, but it was definitely cold. I developed a new technique for getting ready in the morning of staying under my quilt until fully dressed as it was just so cold. The sun was out though and despite the warnings of rain it looked like another nice day.

I got up quite early as I needed to make up some ground today. I want to leave myself around 15 miles to do on Sunday, so that means I have Friday and Saturday to do 47 miles. As Loch Lochy was so nice and the weather was being kind I thought I’d get on the trail bright and early and eat up some of those miles. Despite the cold I was quite happy to do this. I think the perfect location actually made me quite keen to get on with the day and embrace it. The Loch was totally still as the wind had now gone entirely so I took the opportunity to have another play with the drone. I’ll get the hang of it one day.

Despite the distraction, I was on the trail by 8am.

Eating miles

The mornings do tend to be easier I think. Well actually I don’t think it’s the time as such but how long I’ve been walking for. When I first start, my pack feels much lighter, it’s not pulling on my shoulders, and my feet feel fresh. Later on I find the pack pulling down on my shoulders as if the waist belt isn’t working anymore. It’s a bit like I somehow go slippy and it won’t grip properly. This then does affect the mileage as I find I need more breaks. I feel the weight of the pack pushing down on my feet. Like I’ve gained a few stone.

When I was speaking to the lady I met yesterday she wasn’t asking me how heavy my rucksack was. I said I didn’t know but probably about 12kg. She lifted it and said there was no way it was only 12kg as hers was 12kg and mine was a lot heavier. I did feel a bit silly at this point and it looked like I’d overpacked and that I didn’t know what I was doing. I had just been to Morrison’s to get supplies for the remainder of my walk but telling her I’d just done the big shop probably would have made me look even worse.

I digress, but what I’m trying to say is, as it was the morning, and I was happy, and the path was good, I was making very good progress. The miles felt easy.

I was so relaxed and on top of things I even took the time to stop at a waterfall and collect some more water. That is one thing I really love about wild camping. Especially up here, you get to drink really cold refreshing water straight off the hills. Although I obviously filter it.

Lagan Locks

Around 12pm I got to my first available toilet. Using my key I was able to use the facilities and, most importantly, put my contact lenses in. Everything looked good again.

At this point in the walk the path again follows the canal but is in a small stretch of woodland. I remembered this section really clearly from the boating holiday we took a few years ago. I wish I’d been on that now though because I then headed onto the diversion I mentioned at the start.

On the diversion you could often see Loch Oich, and because the path had climbed it did look picturesque but I couldn’t help but wish I’d been on the proper path. There were some serious climbs but I think the worst part is when it turned away from the Loch altogether. I’ve moaned about it twice now so I’ll leave it there. It still had some very nice views to enjoy while getting over the climbs.

Fort Augustus

Eventually, after the long diversion (sorry), the route brings you back onto the Caledonian canal. I knew the next place on here was Fort Augustus where I had decided I’d get some food, but it was still a few miles to go.

At this point the weather had changed slightly for the worse and frequent showers were coming through. They didn’t initially last very long so I just covered my pack and used my umbrella. This did slow me down though and, maybe because I was getting hungry, did start to worry me.

I was already concerned about the availability of anywhere to camp after the town and that, plus the rain, was starting to affect me. I started to worry about everything. I was even worrying about where I’d stay on Saturday night. I’m not sure why this gloom set it at this point but it did trouble me for the last mile into Fort Augustus.

Once in the town I decided to first get something to eat. Maybe that was the problem. So I got some fish and chips and that actually did take the edge off my worries a bit. At this stage though the rain was really coming down so I sat under my umbrella eating them. Another thanks to Jenny for making me take it. By now though I was getting cold as well so I headed off to the toilet block that accepts my key. The ones at the bottom of the locks were out of order so I had to trek all the way to the top. I’ve walked 27 miles today but it feels like half of them have been walking up and down the locks at Fort Augustus.

Luckily the facilities at the top of the locks were working and they were very warm so I warmed myself up, calmed down, and then headed out of the town in search of a pitch for the night.

Not the banks of Loch Ness

I thought the Great Glen Way tightly followed the side of Loch Ness. In fact it does run in parallel but about 200 feet up and in woodlands. This is all very lovely but I found it very hard to find a suitable spot to pitch my tent.

I walked for about an hour and a half getting more and more worried as I couldn’t find anything suitable. It’s so daft really. I was talking to myself saying it was ok, that I’ve got a head torch so I can just carry on as long as it takes to find a place. It doesn’t really help though and I can feel myself almost becoming scared. It’s not very pleasant if I’m honest.

But, as always happens, I’ve found a spot. It’s not Loch Lochy amazing but it’s ok. The minute I set up the tent and got my stuff inside I calmed down. I don’t know why I put myself through it.

In summary, a great day, good miles covered, some wonderful scenery. Just a little bit of unnecessary nerves at the end.