The Great Glenn Way I think is often considered the poor relation of the West Highland Way. I don’t think that’s official in any way but it’s just the impression I get when speaking to people. This had formed a vision in my mind of what to expect so I wasn’t really expecting it to be as spectacular.

To be fair I’m only 18 miles or so into the walk so it could all go down hill terribly from here, but so far I’m thoroughly enjoying it. In fact, if this is the best bit then I’m still happy.

Today I’ve only seen 3 people walking the way. The first was a guy that was staying at the same campsite as me. We met this morning as he’d only got to the campsite at 8:30pm and was finishing the West Highland Way today and then starting the Great Glen Way (which was my original plan). We walked together the 2 miles from the campsite to Fort William where I left him to complete his walk. He was a really nice guy, quite young I think. Said he was also a runner but thought he’d give thru-hiking a go. He was from Belgium and we had a really nice chat on the walk. It’s amazing how much you can find out about someone in just 40 minutes. Although I didn’t get his name.

The second person was actually coming the other way and had started at Fort Augustus. I got the impression he’d walked the way a few times and he spent a good five minutes telling me about where I could camp and about the current diversions. He wasn’t camping himself and had only got 2 days off so was just doing a bit of the route. He spent time looking up details of hostels on his phone for me. I didn’t need them but it was so nice of him to take the time for me.

And finally, while walking beside the first stretch of the Caledonian Canal a young lady started talking to me. She also had just completed the West Highland Way, climbed Ben Nevis (although she wins as she camped near the tarn on the way to the summit), and was now on this trail. She was so friendly and offered me water and chatted about all sorts. She was also from Belgium but had been travelling everywhere. She said that was all she did at the moment. So a quiet but friendly trail.

A late start

It had rained overnight so the tent was quite wet when I woke up. Luckily the sky was clear and the sun was starting to dry things off so I decided there was no need to rush to get the tent down. The longer I left it the drier it would be. So I treated myself to a bacon cob for breakfast and uploaded my latest post. It’s so much easier with the campsite WiFi. I also needed to remember to pick up my battery banks which were charging up in a clever charging locker type thing that the campsite had. I was really impressed with this campsite.

It was 10:30 before I was all packed up and ready to go. There had also been a bit of a disaster as I had managed to rip the groundsheet of my tent. I think this is just through carelessness. Tonight I’ve managed to do a temporary repair which hopefully will hold out until the end of the trip. I was actually quite impressed with myself as it only bothered me for a few minutes. Normally that sort of thing could ruin my whole day.

I was trying not to stress about the late start. In the past I would have skipped going to Morrison’s because I was running late but supplies were definitely needed for this leg so I made myself go in and grab what I needed. I’m really not sure I needed the Chelsea Buns I came out with but I wanted them.

We’re off

So it was 11:30am before I hit the trail. Quick picture of the sign indicating the start and I was off.

I immediately calmed down at this point. Before I was thinking of all the things I needed to do but now it was simple. I just had to walk. It was also helpful that some of the route was familiar to me as I’d walked to the bottom of the Caledonian locks with Jenny when we’d had a small road trip a couple of years ago. I even took a picture of the “tree stump” she remembered me standing on. Fond memories.

I would say the first couple of miles are actually quite good considering the path goes through built up areas. But in my mind I really just wanted to get onto the path of the Caledonian canal. That felt to me that I was then heading in the right direction and making progress.

I used my key

One of the benefits of walking the Great Glen Way is that you can make use of toilet and shower facilities that are provided at the locks. Because I’d got Jenny to ring up and order a key for me it was free. It unfortunately cost Jenny £15 plus delivery. I think this is still a good deal though, because knowing there are toilets I can use is one less thing to worry about. I will probably even treat myself to some showers later on, but for today, at the first locks at the start of the canal I tested out the key and all worked well.

Nice and flat

The canal section does go on for quite a few miles before it eventually gets to Loch Lochy. I did quite enjoy the stretch though because I felt that I’d earned some flat terrain following the last few days, and also because of the views of Ben Nevis and the surrounding mountains. From the canal I could see the other side of Ben Nevis and it was a much better view than I got from the campsite. I may not have made the wrong mountain mistake from this angle.

Some people I meet know all the mountain names and Munro’s and can point them out. Lots of people do it in the Lake District as well. I often can’t even tell what they’re pointing at and certainly can’t remember what the names are. I don’t think I’m ever going to be knowledgeable like that.

Diversion

As the man I’d met earlier on my walk told me, the path now diverts round to the west side of Loch Lochy. I got the impression this was going to be very bad. And initially as you hit the Loch you do have to do a small amount of road walking. After that though, the path heads through a forest and out onto the banks of the Loch. It was so nice and such a pleasure to walk on. Walking the canal, despite being efficient and scenic, was becoming a little mundane so this was a very welcome surprise. It really was as good as the West Highland Way.

I did see some people who were canoeing the canal setting up camp in the woods so I felt there would be something suitable for me later on. I still needed to get some miles under my belt so that the rest of the trip wouldn’t be too difficult.

Except

I still needed to cover about 2 miles when I came across a really good pitch. Lazy Ben kicked in and before I knew it I’d stopped. I’m a little worried as I think this is probably quite a popular area but so far so good. The early finish also gave me a chance to fix the bottom of the tent. You can barely see my repair.

I think tomorrow I’ll try to start a bit earlier and get some miles under my belt in the morning. I’ll be fresh then so it shouldn’t feel so difficult. I really was walking like a snail by the end of today. The next part is to finish walking Loch Lochy and then I’ll be onto Laggan Locks. That’s where we once hired a cruiser when the kids, my Dad and I cruised the Caledonian Canal a few years ago. I’ve got fond memories of that holiday although I do remember Jake and Toby going through a bit of a fighty stage. I’m glad that didn’t last long!