But not by me. Well not today anyway.

I knew that camping around most of Loch Lomond and on Conic hill was not allowed. That was the reason I decided to book a campsite for the first night. It was also the reason why I had to cover over 23 miles today.

So imagine my dismay when I found myself talking to a guy named Paul. A really nice man who was joking with me about how he was a bit unfit and how his mate was way ahead. Paul told me that not only were they wild camping, they were actually going to camp at the top of Conic hill itself. What made it funnier was later on, after I’d taken a bit of a rest near the top of the hill to admire the view and rest my shoulders, I saw them setting up camp. 5pm in the afternoon and also right next to the path. They were not bothered about the rule at all. Personally I’ve got no issue with it. They won’t be doing anyone any harm and they seemed like the type of guys that would do it properly and leave no trace. Their pitch looked excellent and the views were going to be amazing. Paul said he liked to photograph stars and we have a clear sky here. There is also the chance of seeing the Northern Lights. I really hope it works out for them.

Note – I’ve just poked by head out of my tent while I’m writing this – no sign of the Aurora yet.

I’ve undersold Glasgow

As promised, today I’ve had an early start. To breakfast for 6:30. Back to the room and pack and on my way to Queen Street Station at around 7:15. You know, the city scrubs up nicely. Lots of people milling around, I assume heading to work. It seemed like a really nice place.

One thing made me chuckle though. As I was getting near the station I spotted a fellow walker. We look really odd and out of place in the city. I then spotted a couple more in the station. It reminded me of the first Harry Potter book where all the wizards and witches are celebrating the alleged death of Voldemort and had let their guards down in front of the muggles.

Once on the train the guard was asking me about my plans and was really friendly. He made me feel very welcome. Everything was going smoothly and everybody was being so nice. It all felt rather perfect and definitely was lifting my mood and erasing any concerns I had about the trek ahead. The train arrived in Milngavie, I strapped on my rucksack, the guard wished me luck, and I headed to the start of the West Highland Way. And the sun was shining. Glasgow really had been a treat.

Can I patent that?

The start of the walk is great. I wasn’t alone as a few others had started at a similar time. It wasn’t busy by any means but when I started the coast to coast walk I didn’t see anyone at St Bees that day who looked like they were doing the hike. Although, thinking about it, I was pretty late that day so I’d probably missed them all. This time, in a very un-Ben like way, I was quite early. Just past eight as it happened. Near enough to my target departure time so I was happy. The number of people did make me glad I was doing this in April rather than peak season where I think it’s very busy. But nice also knowing that my choice of date wasn’t ridiculous.

The walk progressed well. I kept being overtaken by one gentleman who would, a short distance later, stop and I’d go past again. After this happened a few times he told me that he was having to wait for his son. I’d assumed he was on his own. I initially found this strange but on reflection it is probably a good way to do it. I didn’t see either of them after about 10am.

There were a couple of rain showers in the morning. I thought the blue sky I’d had on the train ride was just a cruel trick, to make me think I’d been lucky again with the weather. No worry though, I’d come prepared. There was little wind so out came the umbrella. I know this isn’t considered a true hiking piece of equipment but it seems to work really well. The only problem is holding it. While it’s raining I hold it in one hand and just use one trekking pole in the other one. The problem comes when the rain stops but you can see more on the horizon. It’s a pain to stop each time, take off your pack, and store it again. But it’s also a pain to carry it when it’s not raining. So I invented something. The rucksack waist strap umbrella carrier.

It’s so good that I kept it attached all day even though the weather was perfect. It’s held firmly to the waste band so doesn’t swing around, as that’d be annoying, but is ready for action as soon as the rain comes down. No more walking on wondering weather to pack it or unpack it. It’s there ready. I’m impressed with myself!

I already thought Shetland Ponies were small

The landscape changed a lot today from leaving the train until now, at the campsite. Initially the path went through a woodland, but the sort that you have on the outskirts of towns and cities. You know it’s not proper wild but it’s very nice nevertheless. From there it is more exposed and some of the highlands come into view but even the smaller hills you’re walking past look impressive. There is some initial undulation but then, after 6 miles or so, it all goes flat.

You can still see the hills and mountains around you but the path is just level. It was good for getting some miles under my belt so I’m definitely not complaining. It was a nice path as well. Quite narrow but easy walking. A few puddles here and there but considering all the rain we’ve had recently the quality of the path was quite remarkable. At one point I went past a cafe with some Mini Shetland Ponies. I already thought Shetland Ponies were mini but these were extra small. Cute though.

There are roads

This was probably my least favourite part of the day. The route has a few miles of road walking. There are some decent climbs as well so I didn’t find it very pleasant. The roads weren’t busy and I guess I was only on them for a hour or so, and it really wasn’t that bad. It’s just the rest of the walk was so nice that this stood out. Soon though I was back to proper paths and was heading to Conic Hill.

I actually thought I’d climbed the hill a couple of times before I actually did. There are some climbs through forestry works, which I thought might be it. Then another climb through more exposed areas that overlooked Loch Lomond, which also wasn’t it. And then, finally, it was in front of me.

The climb was pretty tough but I just took my time. One of the best bits of advice I’ve ever received. Half way up the hill was when I met Paul on his 10th break of the climb. He said I looked like a seasoned hiker which I appreciated. Although I think he was basing this on my tatty shorts and the holes in my leggings. What he didn’t know, was that this seasoned hiker couldn’t work out how to adjust a backpack properly and had sore shoulders. I didn’t tell him. Didn’t want to ruin the pretence.

Conic Hill

There’s nothing much I can write about Conic Hill that gives it the justice it deserves. I’m glad the route goes over it because the views are fantastic. It also makes you appreciate how large Loch Lomond is. You can see it for so much of the day. It seems to be in every direction.

The walk down is hard as it’s been newly pathed with big stones so you have to be careful. Again, I just took my time. Near the bottom there’s a stile that’s a bit too small with a backpack. I got stuck going through, had to climb up inside the stile to try to shift the gate round, then got cramp in my calf, then got the gate stuck against my leg, finally managing to get through. All with several tourists as spectators. I’m sure it’d didn’t look to ridiculous. Hopefully managed to style it out.

Nearly there

The bottom of Conic Hill feeds into Balmaha which is a nice little place. I was tired now and just wanted to get to the campsite. I’d made good time so I wasn’t worried about getting to the campsite on time but my back was hurting and I was starting to feel a bit down. There’s a lady I sometimes watch on YouTube who does a lot of hiking. When she gets stressed on the trail she always goes through a checklist. Thirsty – yes. Hungry – yes. In pain – yes. I like it, and I do the same. You’re feeling negative because something physical isn’t right (at that time anyway). So you just have to fix those things.

And it works

I grabbed a sandwich for my lunch tomorrow from a shop in Balmaha and then headed along Loch Lomond to get to my campsite. It was a really nice path but I was struggling to enjoy it. I was questioning the wisdom of doing this trip at all. I know, it’s only the first day. But the rucksack thing had got me worried.

But now it comes good. Really good. I got to the campsite and took a breath. Pitched up. Sat down for a bit. Had an Ice Cream. Took a warm shower. Had a chat with Jenny while lying in my tent looking out at the views. Had dinner. And now I’m writing this. It’s made me realise what a great day I’ve had and how lucky I am to be here. Excluding the last 3 miles it’s been perfect. Everything about it. And the last 3 miles, well they weren’t so bad.