Wet night in camp

Jenny wasn’t too happy with her first campsite booking. It was quite a strange setup and didn’t really have proper facilities like a decent shower block. When she picked me up from Porthallow she said that some of my wild camps had probably had better facilities. They’d certainly had better views.

By the time we got into camp it was dark and raining heavily but luckily Jenny had the tent up so we were able to jump in. We still aren’t very organised yet so it was a bit complicated getting all the kit in the right place, getting warm clothes on, and eventually cooking. It was frustrating not knowing where everything was but we’ll get on top of it soon. Ultimately we were dry, had eaten, and were safe. Everything you need. Plus I was half way down a box of red wine so pretty relaxed.

It was wet and windy all night but everything stayed dry. It was a job well done. Luckily a sunny day was forecast so we’d be able to get the tent dried out quickly at the next campsite.

Initial diversion

The day started in a similar way to how the last one had ended. A little frustrating. We drove down to Porthallow and the road was blocked by a delivery van which had managed to roll onto its side. Luckily no one was hurt, except maybe someone’s pride, but it did mean we couldn’t head all the way down. A man driving the other way up the lane told us it was blocked but that you could still park in the cafe carpark. I find everyone so friendly around here. We parked in the cafe, I had a chat with a policeman about the route to walk down, Jenny went into the cafe for a coffee, and I headed down to the cove. It was only about half a mile to walk so not too bad. The funny thing was the van was meant to be making a delivery to the cafe. They were low on stock and all their supplies were in a van lying on its side.

I was disappointed when I got back to the coastal path to see that there was another diversion that took you back onto roads. Initially I didn’t realise what it was trying to tell me because it was talking about a new route and I could see the signs for the path so I figured they were for the current route. So I just followed the signs for the path. Which was a good path so I was happy.

After a few more signs about the new path, I realised I was in fact on the new path, which would soon terminate, and the signs were telling me to follow the path on the OS Maps. These take you inland on narrow roads. I should have been following these since Porthallow. Well I don’t like going backwards, and I really didn’t want to go past the stricken van again so I worked out a route back to the inland path from where I was. Not too bad. A shame that it wasn’t on the coast but it shouldn’t take too long.

Success. After a little while I found the official inland signs for the coastal path. All I had to do was follow these and eventually, after the diversion, I’d be back on the coast. Not too bad after all.

Porthoustock

The inland path brings you into Porthoustock. I was feeling pretty happy now for a couple of reasons. First of all I was back on the coast, in a quiet little place with a stoney beach. I say quiet, there was a small building set back from the beach where a choir was practicing. I recognised the song but I couldn’t name it. It sounded quite modern but for me that could be something from the 90s. I thought it would be coast path proper from here.

The other reason I was pleased to be here was that I’d been looking out for this place. When I’d been on holiday with my children about 6 years ago we’d gone sea kayaking and it was from this beach we’d set off. The company was based in Porthleven but we’d followed the instructor here by car as the conditions were much better. As I’d been blindly following him that day I never actually knew where we were and always wondered. So I was hoping I’d recognise it.

I’ve got mixed feelings about that day. I really loved doing an activity like that with the kids as I think these are the things we remember. And I liked the sea kayaking myself. It was fun going through the channels in the rocks and paddling out to sea. Unfortunately I had to endure Kian moaning that he had to share a kayak with me and that he was definitely big enough and strong enough for his own, along with Toby moaning that he kept on bashing his hand and was struggling to row. The Mum of the other group we were with kept on giving him loads of sympathy and I could tell she wasn’t impressed that I was trying to ignore him. I’d suggest, although I could be wrong, the reason he kept on bashing his hand was because he hadn’t listened to the instructions we’d received at the start of the lesson.

Path closed

Leaving Porthoustock, still unsure of the music the choir were singing, the path again goes inland for quite a while. However, after reminiscing for a while I was in a good mood and feeling happy so I was fairly upbeat about it. I noticed that inland roads and fields were still quite nice to look and I was enjoying the calmness.

My new found enthusiasm for the inland coastal path was dashed when I came across a big red sign saying path closed. No diversion this time. So I don’t get to say that the diversion had a diversion. This was most annoying. I’d been really looking forward to walking on the Lizard. It’s always been one of my favourite places and now I was getting frustrated.

Oh well, I worked out a new route round this problem and carried on walking. The roads are really narrow here and when a car passes you have to virtually get in the hedge so they can get passed. There was an element of grumpiness entering into my head. However, not long after, once I’d again found my acorn national trail signs to follow and had a nice chat with some passing walkers who were also moaning about the diversion, I had the sea in sight and the outlook was again rosy.

Lizard, all is forgiven

I can’t remember exactly where the path again joins the sea, maybe this was about 2 miles from Coverack, but from here it gets really pleasant. It’s quite unusual, there are lots of rocks but everything is low to the sea. Like a very large shallow beach of rocks. The path for the most part is just next to this on fields and I really enjoyed this part. I found out Jenny was in the village so she said she’d wait for me there.

Coverack itself has a large beach and it’s an attractive looking place. By the time I found Jenny she was sat with a couple of older ladies who were telling her all the local gossip. Apparently they knew someone who’d had a hole drilled in the bottom of their heating oil tank just after it’d been filled. I got the impression these ladies, although not entirely approving of this, didn’t feel it unjust.

Trail to Kennack Sands

I’d heard a lot about Kennack Sands so I was looking forward to seeing what all the fuss was about. The path there was an incredible passage but it was quite difficult. I thoroughly enjoyed the walk but it was a demanding few hours. In some parts it reminded me of the Lake District. Certain climbs and descents had multiple routes where walkers had not agreed on the best way to negotiate their way up or down.

The effort was well worth it though. I almost had the place to myself and the views were amazing. I don’t suppose so many walkers pass through here which is a shame for them because it’s outstanding. In places I had to be very careful, and was mindful to not let my thoughts wander to my children and if they’d be safe on this route and how fragile everything that keeps me ok really is.

At some parts the route felt familiar to some of the paths I’d covered when I’d just got past Plymouth. Where I’d felt exposed to the elements and had felt fear. Where the path was close to sheer drops into the sea. I didn’t feel that here though. Maybe it was because the weather was better, maybe because I’m more familiar with the area, maybe because I knew support was just around the corner and I wasn’t all alone.

I’d recommend this path to anyone who wants a challenge and some amazing views. Maybe I’m not that fit or agile, but I’d also offer caution and to take your time.

Kennack Sands

Kennack Sands seems to have two beaches separated, when waking the coastal path, by a small cliff to walk up and down. Walking on the first beach the sand sucks your feet down. It’s like the beach wants you to slow down and take some time for yourself.

When I walked over to the second I realised I’d been here before. The boys and I had camped just a short walk from here and had visiting the beach a few times. I’d known this beach all along. It’s funny when I come back to these places and the memories it brings back. Not all good, but generally these were happy times. Kids are a total pain, and when they grow up you do get some freedom back, but I do miss those days when they were younger.

Change of landscape

I decided now I was just going to walk until about 6. I was in half a mind that I might get to Lizard Point but I wasn’t too bothered either way.

The terrain from here was much easier. Not at all like the Lake District now but the views still causing me to stop and take photographs. I kept on spotting great spots to wild camp. Made me chuckle as this was no longer a requirement. Plenty of opportunities around here though if you wanted to.

The lifeboat station at Kilcobben Cove is absolutely amazing. It looks like something out of Thunderbirds. This had just come into view and I knew I was quite close to Lizard point but I decided I’d like to celebrate hitting the most southerly point of the route tomorrow. So I came off the path at Church Cove and headed inland to meet Jenny on the green at Lizard. We both know this area fairly well.

Guess what, we’d booked into the same campsite I’d stayed at with the boys all those years ago. I’d just forgotten it’s name.