Back where I started

I was still disappointed but not surprised when I woke up in the morning to pretty high winds with a forecast for them to get worst through the day and into the night. A few people I was camping near were packing up a day earlier than they’d planned because of the winds as the prediction was for gusts of up to 50mph.

I didn’t really know what to do. Jenny was due to be driving down today and had also been told of the high winds so was considering a hotel for the night instead of camping and I had checked the ferry timetable online and that confirmed that all the crossings in Falmouth had been cancelled. To get through Falmouth on the coastal path you have to take two ferries. One short one over to St Mawes and then a longer one to Falmouth marina. There was the possibility to get around this by getting a bus to Truro and then another one to Falmouth but that would involve a walk back to Portscatho which I believed was the nearest bus stop. None of this was ideal though and I didn’t really want to miss out on a ferry ride.

I decided to pack up and at least walk the coastal path until the ferry point and then decide what to do. I had a feeling this wasn’t going to be a very productive day. I wasn’t really looking forward to the winds either, especially on the exposed cliff edges. I find the wind really relentless and actually quite annoying.

St Anthony Head

I had it in my mind that the walk to and around Zone point, St Anthony head and to the ferry quay was only a couple of miles but it’s actually 6 miles so although not a massive mileage it was still a reasonable walk to start the day. Whilst walking and looking out I could see how rough the sea was and how the waves were breaking out in the distance. I figured I’d have enjoyed the ferry in these conditions.

There were a few people out walking and I felt the need to tell them that I didn’t like the wind, and that I knew I was effectively walking into a dead end. I didn’t want them to think I stupidly believed the ferries were running. Before you reach the headland there is a big beach and there were some people out swimming. No such thing as bad weather for some.

The way the headland is you walk quite a long way to not get very far. It starts to curve around and you eventually turn back on yourself as you walk up the estuary. As the wind was strong it felt more hostile than it would on a calm sunny day but I enjoyed the walk. It was just a little frustrating because I didn’t know what to do about the lack of ferry and the logistics of meeting Jenny and deciding where to stay. I’m a little annoyed at myself because I let these concerns dampen my enjoyment of the walk which was through some lovely scenery. As Falmouth comes into view you can see the size of the estuaries. I don’t think I’ll be paddling over these ones.

I walked past the site of an old watch shelter and then down some steep paths that send you along the river Percuil towards to ferry quay.

What to do

At this point I was still thinking a bus was my best bet but that would take a while and then what? I’d get to Falmouth and continue walking but then where would we stay for the night and where would Jenny meet me. I didn’t think she’d get down until about 6pm and that’s a bit late to sort things out.

I’d been stopping a lot on this walk. Taking multiple breaks. Lacking any direction or motivation. During my latest stop I hatched a plan. I wasn’t incredibly excited by it but I thought it was the best idea.

I would head back to the campsite I was just at because I was pretty sure there were pitches that were shielded from the wind. I’d get there by walking inland which was only about 4 miles instead of 6. If I could get a sheltered area to set up camp then all pressure was off. Yes, it did mean that I’d lost a day but the weather was out of my control. This way, everything would be set up for when Jenny arrived. I might even have a wash! I figured that this wind might not last forever and the ferries could be running the next day which is how I wanted to do this walk. I didn’t really want to be getting busses.

Back we go

It wasn’t the best walk I’ve ever had. Mainly on roads with the occasional downpour of rain. I wasn’t actually sure I was making the right decision which made it less pleasurable but at least I’d made a decision. But I never like going backwards.

I stopped at a cafe for a drink and pasty. I don’t think I particularly like Cornish Pasties. Prefer a steak bake. A man who worked there walked into the dining area and said “at least no one is walking the coastal path and camping in these conditions – oh no!!”. He made me laugh. Then I made my way to the campsite. The sun came out which allowed me to put the tent up and give it a good airing. I’d found a really sheltered spot. Things were working out.

I was sitting on my chair, satisfied with a good decision when a man came over and gave me a piece of cake. We chatted for a bit and a little while later he called me over for a cup of tea and I met his wife. A lovely couple and so generous to me. I told him I was a bit of a fraud as from this moment onwards I’d be having my bags carried and this would be a purely walking mission.

Jenny arrived

I think the weight loss element of this adventure has now ended. Jenny turned up with everything you could think of. Food, cooking equipment, fresh clothes, camping furniture and a box of wine. I think I’ll be well looked after. Although I had to do the cooking.

I’m glad I’d got everything set up before she arrived and it was great to see her again. It’d only been about 10 days but felt like a lot longer. Things do when you’re on the move I think.

The forecast for Thursday is looking much better so hopefully I’ll be able to continue my walk the proper way – on a ferry. Jenny will get to use a car ferry as well so I’m sure she’s very excited about that.