It might just be my age
Today has had so many different parts, that when I think back to this morning, it feels like a different day. So I’m not sure I’m going to have remembered things in much detail but I will try my best. I’ve gone from waking up on Hilsea point, to a ferry ride across the River Yealm, a walk into Plymouth, two more ferry rides, a walk into Cornwall and finally the most stressful wild camp yet.
Noss Mayo and Newton-Ferrers
These seem to be the same place to me but on the map they have different names, but seem to be pretty much joined together. It might be something to do with how the river flows.
The walk here was a great way to start the day. No one had bothered me at all in my camping spot and barring a pretty big storm just after I’d pitched up it was a really quiet night. I think I got a decent amount of sleep. The path was pleasant, initially exposed to the sea, and then going into a wooded area and quite easy going. It took only an hour and a half or so to get to the ferry stop. As I was so early for the first ferry I wandered into the village to have a quick look around.
The place was amazing. Everything was so pretty and what you’d expect to see on a postcard. I could live here, although you’d have to be mindful on tides and ferries for when you could walk to certain places.
I really loved this ferry ride. At the pontoon there is a sign that you fold down to inform the operator that you wanted the ferry and then when he arrives you close it again. I did as I was told as he arrived at the pontoon and then jumped on. He was a really nice and friendly guy and chatted to me while we crossed.
With things like this I often expect to get them wrong and then get the wrath of whoever’s in charge but generally on this walk everyone has been quite the opposite. What I particularly like about this sort of ferry is how there’s no formal boarding plank or anything like that, you have to just leap on.
Lets build up some pace
As I got off the ferry the driver told me the cafe was open at Wembury which was just over a mile away so I thought I’d get some breakfast there and then head onto Plymouth. I was keen to get some miles in today as I didn’t really want to get stuck in a city plus I felt I’d been quite slow the last two days and it’d be nice to have a clear run of it.
The path from the ferry to Wembury was well looked after and I was soon at the cafe for breakfast. There was a child there that had the cutest laugh and he reminded me of Kian when he was a toddler. However, after about 10 minutes of him getting louder and louder I was glad I’d chosen to sit outside! They even had a toilet especially for me.
The trail into Plymouth is initially really nice. You’re quite low down for a lot of it and the path is fairly flat and gives really good views of the sea and small rocky beaches. It then climbs and goes through a couple of holiday parks which is less appealing as you’re just walking on concrete for a long time.
The approach into Plymouth
I was pleasantly surprised here because I was expecting lots of urban streets and everything being built up. Instead the path was like an inner city nature trail. Some of it was a bit overgrown but most of it was really good. There was a great view over the harbour where I saw a Brittany Ferries ship leave the harbour. I’d taken a similar one last year for a motorbike holiday in Spain and Portugal. I then made my way towards the Mount Batten ferry.
Getting through Plymouth
I enjoyed the ferry but I didn’t really enjoy Plymouth. The path wasn’t clearly marked in places, there were lots of people, and I spent a lot of time just walking along urban streets. I was quite keen just to up my pace and get this bit over with. I can see a lot of effort has been put into the docks area but I just wanted to find the next ferry that’d get me to Cremyll where I could get back on some country paths. Luckily that ferry did not disappoint. It’s a slightly longer journey than the ones I’d done recently and I was particularly glad to now have Plymouth behind me.
Now this is what we’re used to
Straight off the ferry and I’m back in familiar territory. Nice scenery, peace and quiet, and a decent path to follow. I’m happy again. I don’t think there are any ferries in my way for a while so I can just walk. Freedom.
The first place you get to after a decent distance is Kingsand. I don’t know how these places still exist but I’m glad they do. It has incredibly narrow streets and what seemed like loads of pubs. Definitely worth a visit. I stopped for a quick coke in one of the pubs as I’d been craving it but also I didn’t know what I was going to do about camping.
You see, I really fancied a camp site tonight. I would have liked a shower but really I wanted the comfort of knowing I was allowed to be in a certain place. The problem was that unless I could get to Looe then a campsite was unlikely. No worries I thought, I’ll just wild camp again.
I just could not find a decent spot. I walked for miles. I found some brilliant pitches around Rame Head, which would also have had excellent views, but because it was so exposed, the wind was strong. I’ve developed a fear of strong winds and camping.
As you go further, the path winds around numerous hut like properties on the sides of a cliff which again meant no camping opportunities. The path then follows the road for about a mile. By now it’d got dark.
The upshot of all this, I’m pitched up at the back of a carpark. I think my dodgiest wild camp so far.
Finally on a positive note
I’ve got over losing the socks and I do believe I’ve made it to Cornwall.
Such beautiful scenery! And I reckon Cornwall is even prettier