Crazy strong wind

I was sheltering behind a strange looking building, that was slightly off the path, as the forecast had predicted that the wind would reduce. Although I was aware that the last ferry over the river Avon was at 4pm. I couldn’t even be sure it was running and had pretty much settled on having to walk around, but I was also getting bored trying to wait out the weather and I was also getting cold. I didn’t feel really cold but my body was shivering and I thought the best way to combat this was to get walking again. Surely the wind would have died down a bit by now. The only thing I vowed to myself was that if the trail took me onto the side of cliffs, in this wind, then I’d find an alternative route.

I’d never experienced wind like this. I remember it being very strong when I was walking the coast to coast during the last day in the Lake District but this was stronger. I could barely stay on my feet and the driving rain was adding another level of discomfort. It’s funny but I just got angry, like it was doing it on purpose to me. My anger helped drive me on.

I noticed the landscape here was just grass and short spiky bushes. Gone were the blackberry bush lined paths, this was just open countryside and then a sheer drop into the sea with large rock formations sticking out of the surface in random places. I assume because this area is so exposed to the elements only certain plants will grow. I pressed on.

As I got to around Bolt Tail the conditions calmed considerably. The landscape was still undulating but the walking became a lot easier and I was able to pick up my pace. The landscape here reminded me of the landscape when I first met my friends Tom and Andrew during the coast to coast walk. I’d typically managed to take a wrong turn and was walking back onto the route to find Tom taking a picture of a massive coast to coast sign post. It still makes me chuckle how I managed to miss that.

I’m not sure if it was the farmers fields, or just the general dampness of the day, but it felt very much like that start of the Yorkshire Dales, except of course the edge of the fields here drop into the sea. The sea here was really menacing and powerful. The wind, although now much reduced, was causing it to crash over rocks and send spray into the air for 100s of metres. It looked terrific. I was trying to capture the moment but I know that there won’t be a single picture I have taken that will do it justice.

A strange landscape

The ground started to level out and then the path made its way around a golf course and some beaches. I was still resigned to missing the ferry but a little part of me thought it was still on so I marched forward. The weather had cleared up massively now and the terrain was easy to walk on. The blackberry bushes had appeared again so I assume we were in a more sheltered part.

About a mile before the estuary the ground gently climbs again but out to sea there are scatterings of giant rock formations. I can’t find words to describe them as they’re so massive, they look kind of prehistoric, like a Star Wars scene where there’s the ruins of a Death Star. Sorry, that’s a pretty rubbish description.

Another ferry

The coastal path signs eventually direct you to the ferry and I wasn’t prepared to give up yet. Although the sea was so far out I was sure I’d be able to walk over the estuary anyway but there are warnings that you shouldn’t do that. But it didn’t matter, I made it to the ferry with 10 minutes to spare.

The man running the ferry said I was on time but that he’d packed up assuming no one else would be along. He hadn’t had a single customer all day. He asked if I’d seen anyone else walking and that’s when I realised I hadn’t seen anyone except for the last couple of flat miles round the golf course. I’m glad really because coming round those headlands in that wind would have been extremely dangerous. It’s funny because now there was little wind and the day was quite perfect .

The ferry pilot then went to a rowing boat and made his way to the ferry. Got in the ferry and came and picked me up. I’m not sure if this is my favourite or second favourite ferry ride. He was certainly a nice guy and chatted to me about the walk and about the channels through the estuary. I like how there’s no ramp to get on or off, they just beach the front of the boat and you jump off.

I love these ferries.

From the beach it was another large climb and then to my campsite. I fancied a shower as I was wet and cold still so had decided not to wild camp plus, thanks to the ferry, it ended up being a really short day so I was able to pitch up in the light. Maybe a chance to recharge some more.