A day of several halves

18 September 2023

Camping in the forest

I knew it wasn’t the ideal spot but I’d put myself in the situation by being indecisive. Also not reading the map properly and realising that there were quite a few houses near where I decided to try after already finding a perfectly good camp. I guess I shouldn’t be too hard on myself as I’m quite new to this and I’ve never been someone to break any rules, except for doing 80 on the motorway.

It worked out though. In fact you could argue it worked out for the best because the feeling of getting your shelter set up as the weather comes in and then hearing the rain and thunder once you’re safe inside is quite invigorating. I can still think of it now and it makes me feel good.

I didn’t sleep particularly well but that was because of the thunder and lightning that continued until the early hours. The lightning would light up the tent followed by the loudest thunder I’ve ever heard. It felt like it was all around me. The rain was pouring down but the tent kept me dry. Things were good.

I must have fallen asleep at some point because my alarm woke me at 6:30. I’m always quite keen to get out of a wild camp although I’m not entirely sure why because by that point I’ve already got away with it. But it keeps me happy so I’ll just carry on that way. The sea was really noisy this morning, and I think quite rough, so when I initially woke up I thought it was music blaring out from somewhere. It’s funny how your mind can wrongly interpret a noise, especially so when wild camping, when your senses seem extra alert.

Heading to Torquay

This part of the walk was more fun than I expected. It was raining and was mainly on roads but I was quite enjoying myself. There was one road where the waves were coming over the wall. From here the path lead into Torquay.

It’s not my favourite

The rain had really started to come down now. I should have got myself some breakfast and supplies for later but didn’t really fancy doing that and decided I’d get stuff at a later place. The rain was getting harder. I can see that Torquay has been improved and has definitely had money thrown at it. I’m not massively into built up areas but I imagine others would really love it. Despite the rain and pretty rough sea some people were still enjoying a swim.

From Torquay down to Paignton

The path was mainly pavement next to roads although it wasn’t far. Unfortunately the rain had managed to find another gear and was really coming down. I stopped in a bus shelter for a bit and the rain did subside so I decoded to get moving. The only problem was all the water in the roads and a lovely car who drenched me. I was wet through and my boots were squelching with all the water in them. Things weren’t going my way.

I didn’t hang around too much in Paignton. It was quite busy with a boat race being organised and some people out surfing. I don’t know if I wasn’t thrilled my Paignton because it’s not for me or because of the weather and how I was feeling. I really should have got food here for my lunch and dinner but I wanted to press on.

On my way out or the town I bumped into a couple out walking their dog. We chatted a bit about the coast path and how they’d done a lot of it. The guy was interested in the wild camping and gave me the impression I’d be ok for tonight. They saw how wet I was and said if I hadn’t been so keen to get some more miles under my belt I could have spent the night at their house. I found the offer amazing and told them how grateful I was.

Is someone trying to tell me something

As I continued my walk into Broadsands the rain opened the tap to full. I was just walking onto a street and was due to turn left down a path and the street turned into a river. Water was pouring out of drain covers and had lifted one out. I looked at the path I was meant to go down and, after trying to step into the road and getting an even wetter foot, decided I couldn’t go there at the moment. The current was so strong it would have been like trying to cross a fast river.

I was thinking maybe I should turn back, get a hotel, get dry, and try again tomorrow. It was very tempting. I was so wet and cold I really wasn’t enjoying myself. I tried to call Jenny for advice but she wasn’t available. I was very indecisive. Hotel or carry on.

I went to the shop

I knew I needed food for later and it had been playing on my mind so I headed up the lane and found a coop and picked up some food for later. Right, one problem solved. It stopped raining for a bit, maybe the flood would have died down. Maybe another problem solved.

I headed back down the hill. My mind still on a hotel but thinking I should press on. The flood had died down so I went for it. Except for a very deep puddle at the end of the path I was ok. I was still feeling a bit down about everything but I also knew I was hungry as I’d not eaten much. I didn’t really desire food but knew that’s what I needed. I kept on waking. I then spoke to a man coming the other way, he said there was a big diversion on the route due to a closed path. I was thinking someone was telling me to turn back. I carried on.

As I neared Brixham things started to come good. The rain pretty much stopped. Despite the diversion the paths were nice to walk on and I was wet but getting happier. Just before you get to the town there’s a really nice secluded beach which I thought I’d like to come back to one day.

I noted there was a chemist in Brixham so I’d go there first to get some Savalon because I had a sore that was bothering me and then I’d get some lunch. It was all ok again.

Brixham to the edge of nowhere

I left Brixham a happy man and set off towards Kingswear but with a plan to stop about half way to camp. It all looked pretty remote so I thought I’d be ok. Everything here was magical. The paths, the little beaches, the cliffs. It was amazing. It felt quite untouched. It’s definitely one of my favourite parts of the walk.

I made the decision to stop at the first suitable camping area and after about 2 hours and 5 miles I thought I’d found it. On top of a cliff overlooking the sea and the cliffs down the coast. I then noticed I’d had a text from Jenny checking I was ok. I had no mobile signal. I didn’t want her to worry so reluctantly decided to carry on. 2 miles and several climbs later and a lot of grumbling from me I finally got one bar and sent a text. Luckily I then found a spot just as it got dark. I did slip and fall at one point going down a slope. I thought it’d be ironic if I hurt myself whilst carrying on to find a signal to say I was ok!!

It’s all ok

So I’ve set up camp on a pretty amazing spot overlooking Ivy Cove with just the lights of a couple of ships being the only sign of other humans. I can hear the sea breaking on the cliffs and owls hooting. Somehow all my kit is dry (except the stuff I was walking in) so I must be doing something right. I’m in dry clothes in a dry bed. I’ve travelled a couple of miles further than originally intended and seen some amazing views and managed to tell people I’m not currently dead. So what felt like the worst day has just become one of the best days. I’m so glad I decided to carry on. I’m very lucky to have got that right.

Tracked Route

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