We’ve lost the moon

14 September 2023

Another wild camp

I woke up at 6am and had not been moved on. I didn’t really relax for much of the night but I guess I’ll just get used to it in time. I was rewarded by the most spectacular views.  After packing up my kit I just sat on my chair and watching the sea and the towns below me coming to life. I was camped way to near to Charmouth really but the other option was to carry on and that would have been a huge mistake.

Charmouth to Lyme Regis

The walk down my hill into Charmouth was nice and the town itself seemed lovely. However, even though Lyme Regis looks a stone’s throw away, the footpath takes a diversion and goes inland on roads and through a golf course. It was pretty rubbish to be honest and the signs weren’t great. Luckily I have my trusty OS Maps and managed to get through without too many mistakes.

Lyme Regis itself is a great place. It’s pretty and, wait for it, has a Tesco Express. I went there after my breakfast to get a meal deal for lunch. Next stop was Boots to get sun cream spray and finally a Mountain Warehouse where I got a neck roll to protect my neck. The ladies in Mountain Warehouse said I wasn’t old but suggested I probably couldn’t pull off pink. We went with grey.

I made a decision and decided I would take my time and try to look after myself. I’d spotted a water point on my way to breakfast so in the new style of Ben I made sure I returned to get topped up. Lyme Regis has everything but it did mean I stayed there for a couple of hours and walked back on myself a lot but it was great to have everything I needed so didn’t have to worry while walking.

From Lyme Regis It was amazing to be able to look back along the coast and see my camping spot from last night. Based on the walk so far today I definitely made the right decision to stop when I did. I’m not sure where I could have camped if I’d carried on. I was extremely lucky. I think I would have had to go for miles.

My breakfast

I sat in a proper cafe for breakfast. Decided to take a break. The breakfast was nice but what is it with these expensive sausages that are packed with meat and other ‘good’ things.  I prefer a Richmond myself. Cheap and tasty. The coke which I ordered was just what I needed in these temperatures.

Lyme Regis to Seaton

What an amazing walk. Quite narrow in places and really tough but so enjoyable. There’s a sign before you go onto the path basically saying how tough the walk is, how once you start there’s no escape, and other words to that effect. I really loved it though. If only the walk between Charmouth and Lyme Regis was so nice – but I think that might have fallen into the sea. For this stretch you can’t see the sea all the time as you are in a forest but you can hear that it hasn’t gone away. Just amazing. The people who have to keep these paths open are so clever.

I’m not sure how long it took me to get to Seaton but I don’t think I was particularly fast. Saw a few people coming the other way who were all very friendly. You start to take this for granted when you’re out hiking.

It’s funny because most are late 50s or in their 60s and they always comment on my rucksack and say I can still do it because I’m so young. But I’m not that young. I don’t bother to correct them. I don’t want to sound like one of those old people who always talks about how old they are – “I’m 86 you know” – type of thing.

Time to kill in Seaton

It’s funny, I use the phrase time to kill a lot but now I’ve written it down it sounds like it’s time to kill someone on Seaton. Won’t be saying that again.

I had a long sit down on a wall and had an ice cream and a drink. I decided then that I wouldn’t got too much further. Had a look at the map and booked a campsite. The wild camping is exciting but I fancied an easier night. Plus I stunk and needed a shower. So decision made. Eventually I got off my bum and started walking again.

Seaton to Beer to Branscombe

Seaton to Beer I can’t really remember. I don’t think it was amazingly exciting but I’m getting used to seeing the most amazing views nearly every minute.

Now the Beer to Branscombe path, well that was something very special. Again, pretty tough but amazing. A narrow track on the side of a cliff that winds its way through the trees and rocks, occasionally showing amazing views of the sea, on its way to its destination. The path reminded me of going sea fishing with my Dad when I was really young. We’d take a track that seemed like this and worked our way out to the sea in the most secluded rocks. I remember we caught a Bass.

From Branscombe I continued on the coastal path for a few miles before heading inland to my campsite. It’s only about a mile off course but I’ll go back tomorrow and continue where I left off.

So a much shorter day today. I even put the tent up in the light. Tomorrow I’m not sure where I’ll be staying. It’s the start of the weekend and as the weather is so nice people are booking out campsites so may be another wild one.

Good news on the water situation. I can’t remember if I said but the water from my hydration bladder tasted odd. I’d assumed it was just Dorsey water but I’ve now washed it out and the after taste has gone. This feels like a massive victory. The little things.

Plans

I’m still going to press on but I know it’s impossible for me to do the whole path. It’s just too hard trying to do 30 miles a day with all my kit and keeping myself ok. So I’m going to slow down a bit. I feel happier for it. I may even get to go in the sea.

I’m still eating the berries.

Tracked Route

1 Comment

  1. Richard Brown

    I discovered Beer (the place not the drink)a couple of years. Lovely place!

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