The wild camp

I didn’t pick the best spot but it was getting late and I was getting nervous. Half the tent was down a slope so the pitch was pretty poor. I didn’t sleep well either but that was mainly because it was too hot. The quilt I use is really good in cooler weather but unfortunately it’s so hot at the moment it’s not working out so well. I think I was sweating all night, probably more than on the walk. The good news though was that I didn’t get disturbed or fall down the bank.

Early start

I must have fallen asleep at some point because my alarm woke me up at 6:15 which was roughly when the sun was due to rise. So I packed up quickly and that was when I saw the first of the dog walkers. So it all seemed to work out really well and I was then onto the trail by 7am. It was nice to be going early. Especially after my slow start the day before. I think I’d done 5 miles before the time that I’d set off on that day.

Now I know why the coastal path doesn’t cut across Chesil Beach

The initial path stays quite low and you sometimes find yourself walking around mini beaches that are protected from the sea by Chesil Beach. After a few miles it then goes quite far inland. A few times I had to check that I was actually still on the coastal path. This becomes much more undulating. I kept on seeing people coming the other way who were close to completed the coastal path. Many from abroad which is a great compliment for our coastline. Most had done it in various stages over time with a Sherpa service. One guy told me I was only allowed to do that when I was 67. Although I’m starting to think he had the right idea – but more on that later.

At Abbotsbury the path spits you out onto Chesil Beach. Wow this was hard work. So many pebbles and so difficult to walk on. It was a good few miles and I found it really hard going. I was longing to just dip my feet into the sea but I didn’t have enough time. I’m not sure how long I was on the beach but it felt like forever. I was also, as is usual for me, running out of water so that was a concern.

I’m spending a lot on drink

I’m not sure if it’s because it’s so hot or if I’m doing something wrong but I’m constantly really thirsty. At the end of Chesil beach and after a short walk on a proper path there was a cafe (no water tap unfortunately) and I just wanted to buy everything they had. I’m so thirsty and nothing seems to take that away. I’m never really feeling particularly hungry either. I guess it’s normal for these conditions – I just try to force myself to eat but I do find it difficult. In fact the whole business of finding food and drink I’m finding quite difficult.

West Bay and Seatown

The walk to West Bay is really pretty although there is one small diversion through a campsite where the official coastal path is closed. I took the advantage of being on a campsite to borrow some of their water as I’d run out. These taps with flowing water have become a craving of mine.  I can’t describe how it feels when you can top up. I think there are actually plenty of places to fill up really but I’m just not great at taking the opportunities when I see them.

West Bay itself is a bit of a small town. No normal shops unfortunately but plenty of fish and chips and ice creams. I realised at this point I was getting quite burnt on my arms and neck so went to a cafe with an indoor section which only sold cake and drinks but it was better than being in the sun.

From there it was onto Seatown which I assumed would be pronounced Seaton but it’s not. It’s Seatown and there is another place further down the coast called Seaton. The paths are really good. A lot of climbs and falls but really nice and I kept looking back to Portland which was slowly getting smaller and looked very inviting.

Unfortunately now I was getting a bit worried. I didn’t know where I was going to eat or sleep. Earlier in the day I thought I might make it to Lyme Regis but I realised that’d be too far. I was particularly keen to get there as they had a Tesco and I needed Sun Cream and food. I was also still craving drinks other than water. I stopped on the hill down to Seatown and rang Jenny for some advice. I could see a campsite in Seatown which I was tempted to try but also didn’t know what to do about food. My arms were burning as well so that was annoying. I have to admit I was considering going home as it all seemed so insurmountable.

What I couldn’t do though was nothing, and that’s sort of what I was doing. I tried to call the campsite but their switchboard was closed. So I decided to walk into Seatown which is basically a beach, a pub, and a campsite but it had a hut selling pizzas. Pizza bought, all problems solved. I decided to eat my pizza then walk towards Charmouth and find a place to wild camp. I don’t understand how I went from insurmountable to everything solved by buying a pizza.

Golden Cap

The walk out of Seatown then takes you up Golden Cap. It’s a big climb but well worth it. The views are incredible and I was lucky to be there. I was tempted to camp up there as it was pretty flat at the top but some kids were there and I didn’t want to intrude so I pushed on. Better to have a couple more miles under my belt.

My only concern was getting too near to Charmouth and not finding anywhere to camp.

On my way down from Golden Cap I bumped into a lady who asked if I was going to Charmouth as she was trying to get up to Golden Cap and back before it got dark. I said I wasn’t as I was going to try and camp before there. I didn’t know if she’d have time but she went for it anyway. About an hour or so later as I was descending into Charmouth I spotted a potential spot to camp about 50 feet off the main path which was quite near the town but I figured I might get away with it. The only alternative now was walking through the town and up the hills on the other side and that didn’t look so great and had houses right up the hill. So I decided to pitch up despite the drawbacks. As I was pondering my next move the lady I’d met before walked past on the path and waved. I’m glad she made it.

I might have to rethink this

I don’t think it’s possible to do the whole coastal path in the time I have. Especially not with all my gear and struggling with food etc. So I think I need to slow down. I was longing today to just dip my feet into the sea and take time for myself but the worry of finding food and somewhere to camp seems to be overwhelming me more than it should. How daft that just eating a pizza could solve all my problems. I think it just shows that they’re not real problems. I’ll push on tomorrow and see what happens.

My camp for the night